The Novel Display of the Ochs und Junior Two Time Zones + Date

Dr Ludwig Oechslin has a talent for simplifying complications. Using the Bauhaus principle of “less is more”, his Ochs & Junior brand tackles complications with ingenious solutions and as few components as possible. The latest GMT model, aka the Due Ore Mese, ups the complexity and power of the earlier Due Ore. Packing a date indication, running seconds and a power reserve gauge, the highlight of this model is the single hand displaying home and local time simultaneously.

The 42mm case with its wide, rounded bezel is made from brushed grade 5 titanium, ensuring a lightweight yet resilient travel companion. The brown PVD dial, with its circular brushed finish, features a very different display from the earlier Due Ore ETA-powered models. Using a contrasting sandy colour for the indications, the indices, hands and numerals are further enhanced with Super-LumiNova.

Like all Ochs & Junior watches, the display needs some explaining. As is the case with most GMT watches, the central hour and minute hands display local time. However, Oechslin’s ingenious solution is that instead of having an additional hand for the second time zone, home time is indicated by the same hand used for local time. The single sandy-coloured hand features an openworked area that frames the home time hour, while the tip of the same hand points to the local hour. Its shape is inspired by the lever used in steamboats to change speed or direction.

The central disc with cut-out Arabic numerals indicates home time and is adjusted so that the time difference between the two zones appears at 12 o’clock. If the second time zone is 3 hours ahead, you set the number 3 at the 12 o’clock position. If the second time zone is behind, you subtract from 12 and set the result at 12 o’clock. All adjustments are executed via the crown.

The date is similar to other Mese watches and relies on 30+1 holes cut into the dial, indicated by a sandy-coloured dot. As a reference point, you can use the cut-out baton-shaped 10-minute markers. For example, the 30-minute marker at 6 o’clock coincides with the 15^th day of the month. What’s more, since the date holes are spaced at 2-minute intervals, they can be used to consult the exact minute; holes mark even minutes, while gaps mark odd minutes. In addition, there is a power reserve indicator in the small circle below the double indices at noon and a small seconds disc above the 6 o’clock index.

Substituting the ETA movement with a more powerful base movement, the watch is equipped with the Ulysse Nardin UN 118 automatic calibre with a silicon balance spring and a 60-hour power reserve. In true Oechslin style, the two time zones and date complications are reduced to as few components as possible, comprising just ten components.

The watch is paired with an Ecopell strap in a coconut colour. The watch can be ordered at ochsudjunior.swiss for CHF 6,900 (excl. tax) / CHF 7,458.90 (incl. 8.1% VAT) with delivery in four months from the date of order.