The New Nomos Orion Neomatik and Tangente Neomatik Doré Editions

Sometimes, you don’t necessarily need to reinvent the wheel to make something appealing. Sometimes, a simple twist can result in an appealing new version of a known watch. Sometimes, keeping things classic is the best. Well, this is exactly what Nomos, the Glashutte-based watchmaker with a Bauhaus twist, has decided to do by introducing two new editions of classic models. And while the brand has been rather active in fun and colourful editions recently, the new Nomos Orion Neomatik and Tangente Neomatik Doré Editions are all about discreet elegance.

While the big news recently at Nomos was the introduction of the Tangente 2date, a watch with a debatable twin-date display but mostly a new movement under the hood, this new pair of watches isn’t here to make headlines… But this isn’t a problem, as we’re looking at two elegant and appealing models that will sit proudly in the core collection.

What’s the recipe here? Well, take two of the most classic models of the brand, the Tangente and the Orion, both existing since the creation of Nomos in 1992 and give them a thin and well-built automatic movement, a compact steel case, a timeless white silver-plated dial and add discreet but elegant touches of gold, hence the moniker doré, which means golden in French. And since gold isn’t the most obvious metal for Nomos, which mainly relies on steel, except for rare exceptions, it’s worth a look.

On one side, we have the new Orion Neomatik doré, based on a timeless design that was part of the brand’s inaugural collection. For this edition, the brand has elected the mid-size version of the Orion watch with its 36.4mm steel case. The watch uses the classic elegant shape of the model with elongated lugs, a gently curved case and sapphire crystal and a relatively thin profile of 8.5mm. The fully polished case is paired with a brown Shell Cordovan strap (18mm).

What sets this Orion Neomatik doré edition apart is the dial, or, to be more precise, the hands and markers. The base is still the classic galvanized, white silver-plated background that we find in most standard versions, but it’s been adorned with gold diamond polished markers and thin baton hands. All printings are done in black, except the neomatik mention in a matching gold tone.

On the other hand, we have a new version of the Tangente, the brand’s most iconic watch, presented in a mid-size, unisex edition measuring 35mm with a thickness of only 6.9mm. The barrel-like case is equipped with angled lugs and an almost absent bezel. More angular than the Orion, it has all the ingredients of the Bauhaus school. It’s also worn on a brown Shell Cordovan strap (18mm).

The main evolution here also concerns the dial, which retains its black-printed Arabic numerals and markers. It, however, relies on thin gold hands for the hours, minutes and small seconds, with a matching gold touch for the mention of the movement type. The silver-plated dial is, otherwise, identical to classic editions of the Tangente.

Inside the case of these two new Orion Neomatik Doré and Tangente Neomatik Doré is the in-house automatic calibre DUW 3001, also known as neomatik. Beating at 3Hz, this thin engine is nicely decorated with stripes and blued screws and stores up to 43 hours of power reserve. It features the brand’s proprietary balance spring (Swing system), a stop-seconds mechanism and is regulated in 6 positions.

Now available in the permanent collection, the new Orion Neomatik Doré and Tangente Neomatik Doré are quiet and elegant releases that add a touch of luxury without drastically increasing the price. The Orion retails for EUR 3,040 and the Tangente for EUR 2,940. For more details, please visit nomos-glashuette.com.