The New Dietrich ED-1, Made for Daily Wear
An independent brand’s take on the elegant everyday watch checks all the boxes while retaining individuality.
Emmanuel Dietrich is a Swiss-based, French-born designer with French and German roots and an unrelenting drive to craft his ideal watch, who presented his first creations as an independent brand in 2014. His debut collection, the Dietrich OT, for Organic Time, was nothing short of a bold design experiment. It was curious, somewhat avant-garde, a wrist-worn exploration that invited mixed reactions. Colleagues found the watches comfortable, even fun, yet they never quite slipped into the mainstream. But then, who says the ideal watch must conform to the mainstream?
Dietrich’s subsequent creations have inched closer to a universal appeal, bridging the gap between individuality and everyday practicality. The SD-1 Skin Diver, for instance, stands as a testament to this evolution. Now, enter the newly released Dietrich ED-1. According to its creator, this watch is “born from a passion for independent watch design and a deep introspection into what makes a perfect everyday watch.” Let’s see what makes this “tailor-made for non-conformists” timepiece tick.
The new Dietrich ED-1, housed in a stainless steel case with a predominantly brushed finish, carries a rounded, hexagonal shape that recalls some of the brand’s earlier releases, the Time Companion for example. This watch measures 39mm across (40.2mm at its widest point, including the crown, and 40.8mm between the strap axis) with a 46mm lug-to-lug distance – fairly compact. Add the domed sapphire crystal, and you’ve got a timepiece that’s 11mm thick. These dimensions and the soft, ergonomic shape ensure the ED-1 sits comfortably on the wrist. The screw-down crown boosts the watch’s water resistance to 100 meters, checking off crucial boxes for everyday wear: comfort and durability. You can wear it without fear of getting it wet, an important criterion on the checklist for an ideal everyday watch.
The Dietrich ED-1’s sandwich-type dial, available in blue and green, beckons closer inspection. It blends features of Emmanuel Dietrich’s past creations with vintage design cues. Begin at the periphery, where the railroad minutes track is punctuated by distinctive (and luminous) markings at 5-minute intervals, with diamond-shaped indicators at the cardinal positions.
Draw your eyes inward, and you’ll find a ring featuring cut-out numerals – 3, 6, 9, and 12 – that enhance the dial’s aesthetic appeal and improve readability in low light, thanks to the underlying surface coated with white X1 Super-LumiNova. For those seeking a functional twist, the ED-1 offers an option with a date aperture replacing the 3 o’clock numeral, though it’s hard to imagine many going for this. To each his own…
The dial’s central section boasts a classic cross-hairs design – an excellent choice. The Dietrich brand name is positioned at the top, with “ED-1” printed at the bottom. The original handset, first introduced in the OT series, matches the dial’s colour – either blue or green – is treated with white X1 Superluminova, including the tip of the central seconds hand. The ED-1 dial checks off several boxes for an everyday watch: it’s good-looking, far from boring, and boasts an easily readable design.
Reliable automatic movement is a crucial factor for any everyday watch worth its salt. The Dietrich ED-1 is powered by the Sellita SW200-1, an ETA 2824-2 alternative with a 38-hour power reserve and 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency. The tinted display caseback offers a view of the movement, with the winding rotor bearing an engraved Dietrich logo. A solid caseback would be just as welcomed, but the allure of exposing the mechanical calibre beating away is a small and acceptable indulgence.
The new Dietrich ED-1 graces the wrist with a 20mm steel bracelet featuring hexagonal links and a double clasp closure, ensuring both style and security. Along with the bracelet, you’ll find an additional leather strap supplied with the purchase – green or blue, depending on the dial colour you choose – easily interchangeable thanks to spring bars. This versatility allows the watch to transform its overall look, radiating different vibes to suit various occasions. Another check for the Dietrich ED-1’s everyday virtues.
Price is always a personal matter, depending on one’s individual means. Yet the good news is that the ED-1 is offered at CHF 1,480 (ex-VAT), with shipping included. If you decide this timepiece is your match for daily wear or special occasions, pre-orders are already open, and deliveries will commence in 2025. For more, visit dietrich.com.