IWC Discreetly Drops new Red Gold Versions of the Updated Portugieser 40 and 42 Automatic

2024 was all about the Portugieser at IWC, the brand’s most classic and elegant collection. Of course, the star of the show was the Portugieser Eternal Calendar, a secular calendar watch that made it to our lists of the best watches of the year. There were many more updated versions of this emblematic watch launched at W&W 2024, including superb colours for the chronograph, updated QPs and revised editions of the Portugieser 40 and 42 Automatic. And in both cases, a classic combination was missing; gold case and silver dial, a.k.a timelessness to the max. Problem solved as IWC presents red gold versions of the IW3584 and IW5017, respectively the 40mm and 42mm versions of its icon. 

The update that these models underwent in April 2024 was subtle, to say the least. We were looking at slightly retouched cases mostly, with thinner middle cases combined with box-shaped crystals – front and back – adding to the slenderness of these models. For the Portugieser 40 Automatic, a watch first launched in 2020, the move to the reference IW3584 meant a case that was still measuring 40.4mm x 12.4mm, but with different proportions and construction. The movement inside was the same. But what mattered most was the introduction of vibrant colours, such as Horizon Blue and Obsidian Black.

Looking at the bigger brother, the emblematic Portugieser 42 Automatic, the idea was the same as above. This large and powerful watch, launched in 2000, is characterized by its ultra-wide dial with sub-seconds and power reserve indicator (necessary considering the 7-day power reserve). Here again, the proportions were kept identical to the outgoing model, but the new reference IW5017 inaugurated a revised case that felt more slender than before due to the domed crystals. Some minor evolutions were made to the movement, moving from the double-barrel calibre 52010 to the revised calibre 50211, which includes better magnetic protection. Several colours were presented, including Horizon Blue, Dune, Obsidian Black, Silver or Deep Blue. These updates are explained in this article with video.

After these handsome but maybe too polarizing colours, IWC brings back the classics, what the industry calls core models. Timeless, traditional, meant to stay in the collection for many years… And for that, we have now new 18 red gold models fitted with silver-toned dials, with applied markers and numerals, as well as leaf-shaped hands matching the colour of the case. As always with these two automatic Portugieser watches, the distinction isn’t only for the size of the case but also the display, as the smaller 40mm version relies on a no-date, small second layout, while the larger 42mm edition includes a date in addition to the small seconds and power reserve gauge.

Both of these new red gold Portugieser Automatic are worn on brown alligator leather straps, made by Santoni. The 40mm is closed by a pin buckle while the 42mm model features a folding clasp. These new references IW358404 (40mm) and IW501706 (42mm) are now available from the brand and priced respectively at EUR 19,000 and EUR 27,000. For more details, please visit IWC.com.