Not Your Average Chronograph, the New MING 20.01 Series 5 (incl. Video)

Horloger MING is not your average brand, just as its latest creation is not your average chronograph. Started by designer and photographer Ming Thein in 2017, the watch collecting community quickly embraced this start-up brand and shot it into the stratosphere. What Ming Thein did, through his experience in the field and keen eye for style and originality, is create a universe of watches from high to low and from simple to complex. Its latest, the 20.01 Series 5, only adds to that, with a unique dial construction and its brilliant movement, as you’ll be able to discover in the video at the top of this article.

MING’s debut watch, the 17.01, set the benchmark for what the brand would become. The case profile was modern yet elegant, the dial and hands played with light and shadow, and it came with easy-to-service movements from Sellita. Over time, MING upped its level of complexity, both in looks and in mechanics, but always with respect to the design codes set by the 17.01. Elements such as the curved lugs, multi-level dials, the use of luminescence, and so on, became standard practice for MING. From time to time, it borders on conceptual watchmaking, which led to the launch of the Special Projects Cave. This series of watches goes even further in exploring materials, textures and contrasts.

In 2020, MING introduced its first-ever chronograph, the 20.01. Initially, it was a concept watch, but soon after, more low-volume iterations followed. And in true MING style, it didn’t settle for simple. Instead, it turned to the movement constructor Agenhor and its unique AgenGraphe. Without giving away too much, this is a chronograph movement unlike any other, allowing MING to stay true to its own unique flair.

The collection now enters the next stage, with the 20.01 Series 5. By looks, it is instantly recognisable as a MING. But looks don’t mean everything, as there’s more to this watch than meets the eye. At 41.5mm in width and 14.2mm in height, I would say it’s a rather sizeable yet wearable watch, at least compared to the usually compact cases of MING. The case is made from stainless steel and grade 5 titanium, and is constructed from no fewer than 34 parts. It’s finished in four ways, with brushed and polished details, a black DLC-coated titanium centre case and blue PVD-coated pushers. The flared lugs are another signature styling element not to be overlooked.

There’s a sapphire crystal on top, which comes into play later as well, and another one around the back. Moving to the dial is where things get really impressive. The 20.01 Series 5’s dial looks like the Starship Enterprise has just launched itself into hyperspace! Laser-milled from a single block of titanium, it’s given a blue CVD coating before being detailed by laser even further. The result is a dial with complex radial strakes, giving it a tremendous sense of depth and life, almost resembling the fan of a jet engine.

Time is indicated by the signature-shaped hour and minute hands, which are filled with Super-LumiNova. This emits a strong blue glow at night, which contrasts neatly with the MING Polar White luminous material on the underside of the crystal. The crystal is laser-etched and then filled with this proprietary material, which lights up white! The white central chronograph hands follow the scales for the seconds and minutes of whatever it is you’re timing.

As I said, Ming uses the brilliant AgenGraphe by Agenhor for the 20.01 Series 5, just as it has in previous versions. In this case, it’s the calibre 6361.M1, which is a manually wound chronograph movement with a rather special construction. Where conventional chronograph movements put the seconds in the centre, and the remaining indications in sub-registers, this one doesn’t. Not only does it have central hour and minute hands for the running time, but it also indicates the chronograph seconds and minutes from the centre.

It benefits from a proprietary coupling mechanism, regulator and upgraded clutch system to ensure it runs as smoothly as butter. Activating it is done with the two blue PVD-coated pushers, with the right one to start and stop it, and the left one to reset it. Winding is done through the crown, which sends up to 55 hours of power to the twin skeletonised barrels. The finishing is absolutely stunning, as virtually all components are visible through the caseback. The bridges are coated in 5N rose gold and have polished angles throughout. The many levers, cams, pinions and so on are straight brushed, with polished screws all around.

Ming puts the 20.01 Series 5 on a dark blue Alcantara strap with the brand’s trademark ‘flying blade’ tuck buckle. This gives the watch a very clean look on the wrist, as there are no loops that might slide up or down along the strap. Next to that, there’s also a black FKM rubber strap that comes with it, for a sportier look. Only 25 will be made, for a price of CHF 37,500, and are available directly from MING or through its retailers. Deliveries are set for August this year, so the wait is short if you’re lucky enough to get one. Be fast, though, as collections often sell out quickly.

For more information, please visit www.ming.watch.