The New Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Dual Time (Hands-On)
An elegant travelling companion for globetrotters, the latest Jaquet Droz Dual Time features an azimuthal map.
Jaquet Droz revisits its Grande Second Dual Time watch with an azimuthal map of the Earth’s continents viewed from the North Pole. Although the movement and the layout are identical to the previous Grande Seconde Dual Time models, the integration of a map enlivens the scenery and underlines the vocation of this watch as a stylish travelling companion. As always with Jaquet Droz, the aesthetics are elegant and balanced, dominated by the prevailing figure-eight motif of the Grande Seconde collection.
It’s surprising how much information Jaquet Droz has been able to pack into the two intersecting circles without congesting the dial. In the smaller off-centred dial at 12 o’clock are the hours and minutes for local time. The local time is regulated by jumps of an hour making it quicker to set the time on arrival and the date adjusts automatically to this change.
The larger dial below indicates three separate functions in one: the outer chapter ring is for the small seconds; this is followed by a slightly inclined and applied ring for the date, which is indicated with a lacquered red-tipped hand; the innermost ring, which is also slightly recessed, features a two-tone 24-hour scale for your home time and is indicated by a red triangle on the date counter.
The map depicted in the centre is an azimuthal map projection that displays the surface of the Earth on a flat plane, as viewed from the North Pole. The proportions of the lower dial are generous and all three functions can be consulted with ease.
Variations on a theme
Jaquet Droz proposes four variations on the same theme. Although all four models share the same case diameter of 43mm and height of 13.13mm, two come in stainless steel and two in 18k red gold. Apart from the difference in price, there are subtle distinctions between them. The two models in stainless steel come with either a silver opaline dial or a stunning black onyx dial, very in keeping with Jaquet Droz’s tradition of semi-precious stone dials. The Roman numerals featured on the silver dial for the hours, minutes and seconds do not appear on the onyx dial. Instead, two white gold rings with black markings frame the hours, minutes and small seconds. Both display the azimuth map with realistic silver coloured continents and an anthracite sea, but the 24-hour indicator is blue and white for the silver version and black and white for the onyx.
The two red gold models come with beautiful black or ivory Grand Feu enamel dials. All the hands (including the lacquered red-tipped pointer for the date) are crafted in 18k red gold and the ring bearing the date is also made in gold. The continents of the gold models match the case colour and are picked out in a red-gold colour against a black or anthracite sea.
The Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Dual Time is powered by the 2663H24 calibre. This twin-barrel movement with automatic winding features a free-sprung balance, a silicon balance spring and silicon pallet horns. It runs at a modern 28,800 vibrations per hour (4Hz) and offers a healthy power reserve of 65 hours (more than sufficient considering the automatic winding). It is aesthetically pleasing and beautifully finished with Cotes de Genève radiating from the balance wheel and an openworked rotor (in red gold for the two gold models), pleasantly finished with polished chamfers and frosted surfaces. Like all Jaquet Droz movements, one of the bridges is engraved with a three-leaf clover, the secret signature of the Maison.
All the Grande Seconde Dual Time watches are presented on handmade alligator straps (in tonalities to match the colour scheme of the dial) and come with either a stainless steel clasp for the steel models and a red gold ardillon buckle for the gold ones.
The steel models retail for CHF 15,200 (with VAT), the gold models for CHF 25,500 (without VAT). For more information, please visit jaquet-droz.com.
The gold one is beautiful. Do they still use modified Frederic Piguet movements? It’s a very good match.
The movement is indeed a modification based on a Frederic Piguet calibre
It has to be one of the most beautiful dual time dials I’ve seen.
Lovely. And it looks very well made. I just wish it were smaller, but IF I had the cash, I would try it on, and hope that it fit.