The IWC Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium, the Icon in Dark Mode

Since its introduction in 1998, the classic IWC Portugieser Chronograph (ref. IW3914) has barely evolved visually. It has only undergone a technical upgrade in 2020, with the introduction of a new generation featuring a manufacture calibre inside (ref. IW3916). And that consistency in the design and overall sporty-chic, nautically-inspired spirit is what makes this watch a modern icon. Except that this year, IWC has decided to give its emblematic chronograph a much more technical look, an all-black attire and a case made of a technically-advanced material – a first for this watch, which has exclusively been available in steel or precious metals. Entering dark mode, here’s the IWC Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium IW371631. 

Together with the Big Pilot, the Portugieser is, without a doubt, one of the most emblematic and recognisable watches of IWC. And this is particularly true when it comes to the classic automatic chronograph version (ref. 3714 and 3716), a model launched in 1998 as a simpler, more streamlined version of the design released in 1995 with the Portugieser Chronograph Rattrapante ref. 3712. Elegant, balanced, sleek, and relatively accessible back in the days, IWC crafted a watch that balanced technical reliability with timeless aesthetics, contributing to its nearly two-decade production run with minimal changes. In 2020, the design and overall spirit were kept almost intact (for the better) while IWC introduced mechanical upgrades, replacing the venerable Valjoux-based movement with a manufacture calibre with a column wheel. But what mattered stayed, including the bright, sporty-chic nautilcal spirit.

The Portugieser Chronograph, whether the old reference 3714 or the current 3716, available in multiple variants and colours, has been exclusively offered in steel, gold (often) or platinum (rarely), staying away from innovative materials that have become a speciality of the Schaffhausen-based brand. This time is over, as the Portugieser Chronograph becomes much more modern in a new all-black version made from the brand’s advanced Ceratanium material. And yes, it truly transforms the look of this watch… Like it or not.

The base remains untouched, and the evolution only concerns materials and colours. As such, the Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium retains the same design and proportions as the classic versions of the reference IW3716 in steel or gold, meaning a 41mm diameter, a thickness of about 13mm (even though it tends to feel a bit less) and a lug-to-lug measurement of about 48mm. All the classic attributes of the Portugieser Chronograph are retained, including the ultra-wide, angled bezel, mushroom-like pushers, and a domed sapphire crystal. The water-resistance is still rated at 30m, barely sufficient in this day and age.

The main evolution is the material used for the case, which transforms what we know as a light, chic watch into a sportier, bolder chronograph in stealth mode. The case, crown, pushers and caseback are all made in matte Ceratanium, a material that combines the lightness and robustness of titanium with a hardness and scratch-resistance similar to that of ceramic. Ceratanium is based on a special titanium alloy that’s fired at high temperatures in a kiln. It comes, as expected, in its distinctive, dark and metallic finish, which was, for now, mostly reserved for the Pilot’s Watch collection. To match this stealthy look, the sapphire caseback is partially tinted.

The all-black design of the Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium continues on the dial, with its matte black base and black printings. Even the hands and hour markers are black – thankfully with a polished finish, to bring a bit of contrast in certain angles. Indeed, while visually consistent with the rest of the watch, this all-black dial isn’t the most practical as there is not a single touch of contrasting colour. Sure, this watch looks cool, but legibility isn’t its main strength.

Under the tinted back is the IWC manufacture calibre 69355, a movement developed and produced with Richemont’s centralised production tool ValFleurier. This automatic movement is equipped with a double-pawl winding system, and all chronograph functions are actuated thanks to a column wheel. It runs at a 4Hz frequency and stores about 46 hours of power reserve.

Availability & Price

Worn on a nicely integrated black rubber strap with a Ceratanium pin buckle, the IWC Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium (reference IW371631) will be produced in a limited run of 1,500 pieces. It will be priced at EUR 14,800 or CHF 13,000. For more details, please visit iwc.com.