Almost exactly 3 years ago, Omega gave Speedmaster fans one of the best possible gifts possible, the re-introduction of the historic Calibre 321, the movement that first equipped the Speedy from 1957 to the late 1960s. This will be followed by another important introduction, that of the Speedmaster Moonwatch Calibre 321, a watch that we extensively reviewed and named the Ultimate Speedmaster. Today, Omega begins the year with a new Speedmaster – just like they did in 2021 with the new Moonwatch – and not just a simple colour or material evolution, but with the new Speedmaster Calibre 321 Canopus Gold, a watch that is all about luxury and being true to the first-ever Speedmaster, the CK2915-1 of 1957 – inside and out.
In 1957, as part of a trilogy of watches, Omega launched the Speedmaster, its vision of a racing chronograph. Alongside this watch were two other professional models, the Seamaster 300 and the Railmaster. But the Speedmaster will always have a place of choice, since it later became the first watch worn on the Moon. But for now, let’s remember the earliest days of this watch, and mostly the design of the CK2915-1. The main characteristic of this model was to have, for the first time, the tachymeter scale printed on an external bezel, and not on the dial. What makes the 2915 unique is the combination of the symmetrical case with straight lugs, the Calibre 321 running inside, the brushed steel bezel and the Broad-Arrow hands.
All of these elements are now brought back with faithfulness, but in a far more luxurious package than before, with the new Omega Speedmaster Calibre 321 Canopus Gold. Contrary to the 60th-anniversary edition, which was an almost one-to-one reproduction of the CK2915-1, at least visually, the Speedmaster Calibre 321 Canopus takes some liberties regarding the materials, but compensate inside with a reproduction of the historic movement.
Marking the 65th anniversary of the Speedmaster’s introduction, and based on the Calibre 321 watch, this new model is different from the steel model in many, many aspects. First, its case is made of 18k Canopus Gold, Omega’s proprietary white gold alloy – known for its shine and durability. The case is here shaped and sized like the 2915, with a 38.6mm diameter for about 14mm in height. It respects the look and finish too, with a combination of brushed and polished surfaces, a circular brushed bezel in gold, straight lugs and angular shape. The external tachymeter scale is here obtained thanks to black grand feu enamel and features the historical display with dot over ninety (DON) and a dot diagonal to seventy.
The Omega Speedmaster Calibre 321 Canopus Gold is equipped with a sapphire crystal, a concession to modernity yet designed to mimic the classic Hesalite look. It features pump pushers and a NAIAD symbol on the watch’s crown, and the water-resistance is rated at 60 metres.
The element that most differentiate this version from the historic model or anything currently produced in the Speedmaster collection is the dial. Indeed, the Speedmaster Calibre 321 Canopus features a dial made of black Onyx, resulting in a luxurious, glossy and pitch-black contrast. It is equipped with applied indexes and hands, of course broad-arrow-shaped, made of white gold with a Canopus Gold PVD treatment and the three classic Speedmaster subdials including a small seconds display, 30-minute recorder and 12-hour recorder. An ode to the past, it comes with the vintage applied Ω logo and typography featuring an oval O for the Omega logo – something unique to the CK2915. All the elements are filled with luminous material, in white for a more modern look.
The sapphire caseback also comes with a few unique features. It is engraved with the classic Seahorse and its eye has been made from a sparkling blue sapphire, a precious jewel that traditionally marks a 65-year celebration. Underneath is the superb Calibre 321, a reproduction of the historic Lemania-based movement that equipped early Speedmaster models. The movement, assembled by hand in a dedicated atelier, shows not only the exact same design and finish, but is also mechanically identical, with only minor updates. The movement still runs at 18,000 vibrations/hour but now has a 55-hour power reserve. The classic architecture with column wheel and horizontal clutch has been retained too.
Finally, to remain consistent with the historical look, this new Speedmaster Calibre 321 is worn on a 19mm flat link bracelet in Canopus Gold, which is brushed and polished and features a folding clasp with security push-buttons and comfort release adjustment system.
Availability & Price
The Omega Speedmaster Calibre 321 Canopus Gold (ref. 318.104.22.168.01.001) is delivered in a special, large-sized wooden box. It is not a limited edition but its production will be rather confidential, due to the hand-made movement, the luxurious materials and the price. Talking about this, it will require EUR 80,000 (incl. 20% VAT) or CHF 75,000 (excl. taxes).
For more details, please visit www.omegawatches.com.