Dual time zone watches (not to be confused with a true GMT) can display the second time in a variety of ways. A second watch face is a simple solution like the Armin Strom Masterpiece 1 Dual Time Resonance, but some brands get creative, like independent watchmaker Ochs und Junior with the Ochs Line Due Ore series. A number disk under the dial shows the hour of the second time zone, while the hour hand then displays both time zones simultaneously. It’s simple, unique and intuitive, and Ochs und Junior has been at it for well over a decade.
The latest model doesn’t change the formula but introduces a new British racing green dial that really pops against the silver (coloured) case. And that two-part case is lightweight Grade 5 titanium designed by the man behind Ochs und Junior, Ludwig Oechslin (a master of minimalism). Look closely and you’ll see traces of machining and milling, which is a deliberate design choice. It’s 42mm in diameter and 10.4mm in height, but only 62 grams with the strap. The crown is also titanium and water resistance is rated at 100 metres. A sapphire crystal protects the dial and the watch is fitted with an Ecopell brown “Terra” leather strap (handmade by Sabina Brägger) and titanium buckle.
The British racing green dial features a circular brushed pattern that seamlessly matches the second hour disk underneath. Although unconventional, reading the second time zone is straightforward. If it’s ahead (let’s say 3 hours), you simply rotate the disk until it’s 3 hours ahead in the 12 o’clock aperture. The hour hand then coordinates with the proper numbers around the dial. You do the opposite if the second time zone is behind you. So, if it’s 2:30 at home and the second time zone is set 3 hours ahead, the hour hand will fall between 5 and 6 on the underlying disk, showing 5:30 for the second time zone. The hands and numbers are coated with Super-LumiNova for nighttime legibility.
Powering the watch is a modified ETA 2824-2 as the 31-tooth date disk is replaced by a 48-tooth time zone disk. It has 25 jewels, beats at 28,800vph (4Hz) and has a 38-hour power reserve. Functions include central hours, minutes, hacking seconds and user-adjustable second time zone disk.
The latest Ochs Line Due Ore in British Racing Green retails for CHF 3,500 with taxes or CHF 3,230 without (as an export price). This piece can’t be customized like some prior models, but the combination of British racing green, titanium and brown leather is certainly eye-catching. All watches come with a two-year warranty.