Monochrome Watches
An online magazine dedicated to fine watches

The New Rolex Perpetual 1908, In Platinum with Ice-Blue Guilloche dial

A far less classic take on Rolex’s most classical watch…

| By Brice Goulard | 3 min read |

Last year, Rolex unveiled a new collection (well, somehow a replacement for the Cellini line) of elegant, highly traditional dress watches, the Perpetual 1908. With a name inspired by one of the first Rolex watches fitted with the Perpetual rotor, it was clear that this new collection was all about traditions. A small seconds display, a finely fluted bezel, a smooth and restrained dial, a thin profile and a newly developed movement (calibre 7140) with a surprisingly classic look… But a year after its presentation, this collection expands with a new version that, despite using atraditional dial decoration, feels bolder than the inaugural pieces. Meet the platinum and ice-blue guilloche dial Rolex Perpetual 1908.

As said, the Rolex Perpetual 1908 somehow fills the gap left in the collection after the discontinuation of the Cellini line. Despite major differences in the the mechanics and on the side of the dial, the overall shape and design remains pretty close to the now-gone Cellini. Elegant, understated yet typical Rolex, the Perpetual 1908 has an unmistakable vintage and classic flair. First released last in white or yellow gold, with a matte white or black dial, there’s now an even more luxurious version, which isn’t only about a platinum case. 

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As for the case, except for the use of the noblest of materials, the shape and proportions are identical. At 39mm x 9.50mm, it is compact and slender – not super small or ultra-thin, but nicely proportioned. The polished case with soft curved is topped by a thin and finely fluted bezel (and we know that fluted platinum is rather new at Rolex) framing a domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating. The fluted crown doesn’t screw down and it is 50m water-resistant. And yes, there’s still a see-through caseback.

As for the dial, we have an unexpected an ice blue dial featuring a guilloché rice-grain motif. This rosette-like design is distinc- tive for its three-dimensional, repeating geometric pattern that extends across the surface of the dial, starting from the small seconds counter at 6 o’clock. The minute track is surrounded by a filet sauté with a crimped pattern, which is also guilloché. The rest of the dial remains in line with the previous editions, with 3-9-12 applied numerals and hands in faceted white gold.

Turning the watch over the Calibre 7140 has been retained. This recent in-house and Superlative Chronometer movement was developed specifically for this collection. It combines a traditional architecture – small seconds, central rotor, a thin profile, visible ratchet wheel and barrel – with a new decoration style – Rolex Côtes de Genève, diamond-cut chamfers, solid gold rotor – and modern technology – transversing bridge with Paraflex, Chronergy escapement made of anti-magnetic nickel­-phosphorus, Syloxi hairspring in silicium and balance wheel with variable inertia. It beats at 4Hz and stores about 66h of power reserve. 

Worn on a matte brown or black alligator leather with green calfskin lining, it is secured by a Dualclasp (double folding clasp) in 950 platinum. This new version is released as part of the permanent collection and is priced at EUR 31,300.

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2 responses

  1. A Rolex with the good luck to look like a Breguet 7147 is 50% more expensive than the original. A nice dress watch but I’m trying to figure out when one wants Tiffany blue, white metal, and brown leather.

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