Launched in 2017 with the complex Tourbillon Equation Marchante 5887 model, followed in 2018 by an entire collection of more classic models, the Breguet Marine represents the sporty(-ish) side of the brand. First introduced in titanium, rose gold and white gold, with the Marine 5517, Chronograph 5527, and Alarme Musicale 5547 models, we’ve already seen evolutions of the collection with titanium bracelets and, more recently, with solid gold bracelets. This year, Breguet is about to offer more variations of its Marine 5517, 5527, and 5547 models, with rose gold watches with a slate-grey dial and titanium versions with a blue dial.
Widely known for his technical innovations, such as the tourbillon or the perpetual calendar (and many more), as well as being one of the most prolific watchmakers of its times, Abraham-Louis Breguet was also appointed official chronometer-maker to the French Royal Navy, the most prestigious title to which a horologist could aspire. Moreover, his high-precision marine chronometers, which allowed ships to calculate their position at sea, were of vital importance to France’s fleets. This nautical background led the brand to the creation in 1990 of the modern Marine Collection. Revisited in 2005 with a sportier vibe, the brand introduced a whole new Breguet Marine collection in 2017/2018 with first the hyper-complicated Marine Équation Marchante 5887, followed by the Marine 5517, 5527, and 5547, respectively time-and-date, chronograph and alarm watches.
The design of this new collection was bold, more contemporary, yet still respectful of Breguet’s ethos. Although it represents the sporty-ish side of the brand, it was a far cry from an instrument watch. It still featured elaborate guilloché dials, fluted casebands and highly decorated movements. The most striking element of this new collection was the juxtaposition of a classic round case with bold, integrated lug modules, as well as wave-shaped crown protectors.
When first launched, all three classic models – 5517, 5527, and 5547 – were available in titanium with a sunray-brushed grey dial, in rose gold with a silvered guilloché dial or white gold with a blue guilloché dial. In 2019, the brand added the option of a metallic bracelet for the titanium models, and in 2020 solid gold bracelets (rose or white) were also introduced to the collection. And more variations are coming now.
New dial options for 2021
The first evolution concerns the titanium models. As mentioned, up until now, this lightweight material was only available in the Breguet Marine collection with a sunray-brushed mid-grey dial, resulting in a monochromatic, almost industrial look. Whether for the time-and-date, chronograph or Alarme Musicale, you’ll now have the option of a blue dial, an option that was only reserved for the white gold model. One major difference must be observed: to distinguish the titanium model from its luxurious precious metal brothers, this blue dial edition will retain the sunray-brushed pattern and not the guilloché decoration with wave effect. Once again, options for a blue alligator strap, a blue rubber strap or a titanium bracelet will be available.
The second addition to the collection concerns the 18k rose gold models – again, for the 5517, 5527, and 5547 watches. Until now, rose gold was combined with a silver-coloured dial, which had a hand-applied guilloché pattern with a wave decoration. For 2021, the Breguet Marine collection is enlarged with a slate-grey dial on the rose gold watches; a warmer, darker tone of grey that heightens the contrast and gives the watch an even more luxurious feel. This slate-grey dial will be available on a brown alligator strap, a black rubber strap or a solid 18k gold bracelet.
The Breguet Marine 5517 time-and-date
As a quick reminder, here are the basics about each model, starting with the time-and-date 5517 version. This edition is the simplest of the collection, with a 3-hand display with a date function. It is also the most compact version, with a 40mm diameter and a relatively thin height of 11.50mm. The case, available in titanium or rose gold, is water-resistant to 100m and features a fluted caseband with a protected crown and a sapphire caseback.
Under the hood is the automatic calibre 777A, an in-house movement with in-line lever escapement, silicon balance spring, 4Hz frequency and 55-hour power reserve. This modern calibre is finely decorated with marine-inspired stripes and a rotor shaped like a ship’s wheel. Prices for these new editions will remain the same as older models: EUR 16,900 in titanium (alligator or rubber); EUR 19,400 in titanium with a titanium bracelet; EUR 27,900 in rose gold (alligator or rubber); and EUR 47,800 in rose gold with a gold bracelet.
Quick facts: 40mm x 11.50mm – titanium or rose gold, brushed and polished, fluted caseband – 100m water-resistant – calibre 777A, in-house, automatic, 4Hz frequency, 55h power reserve, time and date – multiple straps or bracelet available
The Breguet Marine Chronograph 5527
The second model in the Breguet Marine collection is clearly the sportiest of the three, not only because of its complication but also because of its size. Indeed, this model is larger than the two others, with a 42.3mm diameter and a 13.85mm height. This larger case remains water-resistant to 100m and retains all the design elements of the classic model.
Inside the case is a well-known in-house calibre 582QA, an automatic, integrated flyback chronograph movement that is similar to the movement used in the Type XXI. Again finely decorated with a marine theme, this movement runs at 4Hz and stores up to 48 hours of energy. It also features an antimagnetic silicon balance spring. Prices don’t evolve, as the titanium model (alligator or rubber) retails for EUR 21,000 and EUR 23,500 with a titanium bracelet. The rose gold editions will be EUR 33,000 on rubber or alligator and EUR 54,900 on a gold bracelet.
Quick facts: 42.3mm x 13.85mm – titanium or rose gold, brushed and polished, fluted caseband – 100m water-resistant – calibre 582QA, in-house, automatic flyback chronograph, 4Hz frequency, 48h power reserve – multiple straps or bracelet available
The Breguet Marine Alarme Musicale 5547
Last but not least, the Breguet Marine collection also comprises a slightly more surprising yet fascinating edition with a combination of a mechanical alarm complication and GMT function. An unusual complication, the alarm can be set up to 12 hours in advance to remind you to do an important task, leave for a meeting or simply wake you up in the morning. At the appointed time, the striking mechanism is triggered, and the hammer repeatedly strikes a gong in quick succession for up to 15 seconds when fully wound. This version is also housed in a 40mm case. However, it is slightly thicker than the 3-hand version due to the more complex movement, at 13.05mm. Also, due to the chiming mechanism, water-resistance is here rated at 50 metres.
Under the sapphire caseback is the in-house calibre 519F/1. Jointly developed with Blancpain, it was first used in the Breguet Le Réveil du Tsar 5707 and has now been updated with a new display, a power reserve indicator for the alarm and lever escapement with silicon horns and a silicon balance spring. And as you can see in our video here, the alarm function produces a very special sound. Prices do not evolve and start at EUR 27,900 in titanium (alligator or rubber) or EUR 30,400 with a titanium bracelet. The rose gold editions are priced at EUR 38,900 (alligator or rubber) and EUR 58,800 (gold bracelet).
Quick facts: 40mm x 13.05mm – titanium or rose gold, brushed and polished, fluted caseband – 50m water-resistant – calibre 519F/1, in-house, mechanical alarm and GMT, 4Hz frequency, 45h power reserve – multiple straps or bracelet available
For more details, please visit breguet.com.