The New IWC Portofino Complete Calendar
The Schaffhausen-based brand enlarges its classic collection with one of the most classic complications.
Since its launch during the mid-1980s (with the stunning, oversized reference 5251 and its moon-phase display), the Portofino has been the most classic offering of IWC. Even more than the Portugieser, it has to be seen as the brand’s dress watch and evokes pocket watches of the past. Recently revamped, with the 39mm Chronograph model as a flagship watch, IWC has decided to give this watch what’s expected from such a collection; traditional complications. It started with a perpetual calendar, today joined by a pointer date and the elegant Portofino Complete Calendar you’ll discover here.
While having displays that can be identical, a perpetual and a complete calendar are rather different when it comes to the mechanics that sit behind the dial. Basically, each represents an end of the spectrum in the field of calendar watches. A perpetual calendar is a complex mechanism that takes into account all the oddities of our gregorian calendar (months with 28, 30 or 31 days, as well as leap years). Only one correction is required from the user, every 100 years. A complete calendar is far more simple, and can be seen as the step right after the date display. As such, it needs to be adjusted in months with less than 31 days, then the date must be manually set. And if it seems to be a rather minimal difference, in watchmaking terms, it makes a world of difference. More details in this technical article.
The new Portofino Complete Calendar (Ref. 3590) is the first IWC timepiece to feature the newly developed complete calendar module. Coming next to existing perpetual and annual calendar movements, it is built around a highly classical display, with traditional sub-dials. Housed in the redesigned Portofino, this new calendar is all about elegance. It relies on two sub-dials positioned at 12 and 6 o’clock, one with the weekday and the moon indication, the other with the date and the month. Clean, symmetrical and sophisticated. The new calendar module consists of 69 individual parts. Each display is driven by a separate gear train and can be adjusted independently of the others via the crown or using two correction buttons integrated into the left side of the case.
The rest of the Portofino Complete Calendar is classic of the collection, with the latest updates seen on the Chronograph model. Discreetly facelifted, it retains the sleek and soft case of the collection, with short straight lugs. Fully polished, the case is 41mm in diameter with a reasonable height of 11.8mm. Available in stainless steel or 18k pink gold, both models have otherwise identical dials. Silver-plated, they feature the collection’s new and elongated markers and Roman numerals, as well as gold-plated leaf hands. The only difference comes from the markers of the gold version, which are here solid gold, while gold-plated on the steel watch. Overall, an elegant, restrained watch.
Inside the case, and visible under the sapphire caseback, is the calibre 32150. Seen previously in the case of Pilot’s watches, this series of movements is an evolution of the 2892 architecture, produced by the group’s movement manufacture (ValFleurier) for IWC, with multiple enhancements. It comes with an elongated power reserve of 72 hours, a pawl winding system and silicon escape wheel and pallet fork.
Both versions of the IWC Portofino Complete Calendar are fitted with straps made of traceable Swiss calf leather, boasting a natural and soft finish. The steel reference IW359001 comes on a blue strap and is priced at CHF 10,500 (incl. taxes). The gold reference IW359002 comes on a taupe strap and is priced at CHF 20,500 (incl. taxes). They will be available as of April 2023. For more details, please consult iwc.com.
Very much like the sunken dials,another watch , where I wish I had more money.