In 2020, H. Moser & Cie. introduced its Streamliner series, offering its distinctive interpretation of the luxury sports watch with an integrated bracelet. If you’ve followed the brand, you’re likely acquainted with the Streamliner’s diverse lineup, including the chronograph, perpetual calendar, time-only, small seconds and tourbillon models. Notably, the red gold Streamliner Tourbillon Vantablack from 2022 made a mark with its 60-second tourbillon and an exceptionally black dial. The latest addition to this series is the H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Wyoming Jade, showcasing the natural stone’s vibrant colour.
The Streamliner Tourbillon Wyoming Jade boasts the signature 40mm Art Deco-inspired case and integrated bracelet of the collection, both meticulously crafted from 5N red gold. This particular type of gold, akin to rose or pink gold but with a touch more copper, imparts a distinctive and pronounced hue. The watch, including the slightly domed sapphire crystal, measures 12.1mm in height, features a screw-in crown adorned with an engraved M for Moser, has a screwed sapphire caseback and is water resistant to 120m.
A mix of brushed and polished surfaces, the case and bracelet harmonise with the green dial, which is as much a star of the show as the flying tourbillon. Positioned at 6 o’clock under skeletonised bridges, the tourbillon performs a complete orbit every sixty seconds, therefore acting as a running seconds indicator.
Sourced from the pristine landscapes of Wyoming, USA, jade – the most famous of the state’s geological treasures, which is also home to diamonds, sapphire and rubies, opal, peridot, agate, petrified wood, and quartz crystals – the natural stone featured on this Streamliner Tourbillon originates from a pure and untouched reservoir. The stone remains untreated, retaining its unaltered essence and beauty, and the dials crafted from this jade showcase subtle, naturally occurring marks and distinct shades. The manufacturing process commences with a selection of raw materials, where each piece of jade is chosen for its inherent quality and beauty. Utilising CNC technology in a liquid environment, the jade is precision-cut into slices measuring a mere 1 to 1.2mm thick. These delicate slices are then carefully arranged on jigs, wetted, and scrutinised under light to identify the optimal position for cutting the dials.
The resulting dials, affixed to metal plates, undergo CNC milling to achieve the perfect outer shape, followed by meticulous refinement to attain the desired thickness. The final step involves hand polishing, executed with great care to eliminate imperfections such as chips or scratches while enhancing the natural brilliance of the jade. During the subsequent stage, the dial-maker adheres the dials to a brass base after applying a thin layer of varnish to the back. This precaution prevents the brass plate from being visible due to transparency and preserves the aesthetic integrity of the jade.
The dial is adorned with slim red gold baton-shaped indices, featuring a single marker at 3 and 9 and a double marker at 12, all securely affixed from the rear. The hour and minute hands follow the design seen in previous Streamliner editions, incorporating luminous Globolight inserts and maintaining their floating appearance above the dial’s surface.
The transparent sapphire caseback of the Streamliner Tourbillon Wyoming Jade, fastened with four screws, offers a glimpse into the HMC 804 automatic movement, a beautifully finished calibre with an 18k gold cut-out oscillating weight. The movement aims to enhance accuracy and reduce friction by housing a double-hairspring flying tourbillon. Incorporating a second hairspring, exerting equal and opposite force, allows the balance to rotate once per minute, mitigating positional and gravitational errors in timekeeping. The HMC 804 has a 72-hour power reserve and beats to a frequency of 21,600 vibrations/hour.
The lobster-tail-like red gold bracelet of the new H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Wyoming Jade is closed with a three-blade folding clasp in matching 5N red gold, engraved with the Moser logo. The watch is a limited edition of 100 pieces; the price is CHF 109,000, taxes included. For more information, please visit www.h-moser.com.