A New In-House Calibre for the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph 38mm
The compact & unisex 38mm RO Chronograph is upgraded with a powerful in-house movement.
Launched by Audemars Piguet in 2019, the compact Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph 38mm was welcomed by men and women alike. Fitted with a modified Frédéric Piguet 1185 ébauche, the big news for the most compact RO chronograph is the introduction of a brand new in-house calibre with a longer power reserve and a 4Hz frequency. While the new RO chronograph shares its visual identity with earlier editions, there are a couple of design tweaks on board the new references in stainless steel and pink gold.
It appears that AP has had its ear to the ground. While the 38mm case size was well received and praised for its fidelity to the classic Royal Oak, there have been comments regarding its “dated” movement. Since 1997, AP has relied on an outsourced FP 1185 automatic column-wheel chronograph with a vertical clutch, a slim profile of 5.5mm, 3Hz frequency and a power reserve of 40 hours. Modified and rebranded as the AP Calibre 2385, the consensus was that the movement was antiquated, had a modest power reserve and did not reflect the high-end positioning and lineage of the Royal Oak.
When we reviewed the model in 2019, we also wondered whether the RO would be equipped with the “spanking new in-house 4400 chronograph calibre” debuting in the Code 11.59 collection and, if so, when? Well, our questions have been answered. Although it is not the recipient of the AP 4400 flyback chronograph movement with a 70-hour power reserve, the RO 38mm is now the proud beneficiary of AP’s new calibre 6401, a new in-house movement developed over five years that will replace the 2385.
Another milestone in the brand’s chronograph legacy, the new calibre is an integrated column-wheel chronograph with a vertical clutch system patented by AP to reduce the number of components and eliminate unnecessary play. Described as a robust, reliable and responsive chronograph, less pressure is necessary to activate the push pieces – but don’t expect the lightning fast and ultra-light “smartphone-inspired haptics” built into the Royal Oak Jumbo Chronograph RD#5! Beating at a contemporary rate of 4Hz / 28,800vph, the thickness has increased very slightly, from 5.5mm to 5.7mm. However, the biggest upgrade is the enhanced 55-hour power reserve. According to AP, the new calibre 6401 will enter the RO collection later this year.
Having addressed the technical side of the matter, AP introduces another novelty for the 38mm RO Chronograph: a sapphire crystal caseback window to admire the new 348-part movement with 44 jewels. The openworked rotor reveals the refined finishes, including Côtes de Genève on the bridges and polished bevels. The new calibre is marginally wider and thicker – 27mm x 5.7mm – and the 38mm case has a minimally thicker profile of 11.1mm (compared to 11mm) and the generic 50m water-resistance (enough for daily splashes but not swimming) of this family. Faithful to Gérald Genta’s iconic 1972 Royal Oak design, the tonneau-shaped base features a raised octagonal bezel with exposed screws. Details such as the polished chronograph pushers housed in brushed hexagonal guards and the bright polished bevel of the octagonal bezel emphasise the watch’s luxurious nature.
Available in stainless steel with a classic “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” Grande Tapisserie dial and two 18k pink gold references with Grande Tapisserie dials and snailed counters, one with a dark grey dial with silver-toned counters and the second with a sand gold-toned dial, beige counters and a diamond-set bezel, there are novelties to report regarding the dial layout. The colour-matched date window of the new models has been repositioned to sit exactly midway between the 4 and 5 o’clock indices. Compared to earlier editions, where the date window was closer to the 5 o’clock gold index, the new position gives the dial a more symmetrical appearance.
Other changes include rearranging the counters by reversing the 12-hour and 30-minute chronograph totalisers, positioning the minutes at 9 o’clock and the hours at 3 o’clock. The small seconds counter has also been redesigned and now features Arabic numerals at 20, 40, and 60. All the new references feature a matching integrated bracelet with a triple-blade folding clasp. Prices are CHF 34,000 in stainless steel, CHF 66,700 in pink gold to CHF 72,400 in pink gold with a diamond-set bezel.
More information at AudemarsPiguet.com.



