Monochrome Watches
An online magazine dedicated to fine watches
Introducing

The New Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Openworked 16204XT

A new material dialogue for the Royal Oak’s most refined openworked Jumbo.

calendarCreated with Sketch. | ic_dehaze_black_24pxCreated with Sketch. By Denis Peshkov | ic_query_builder_black_24pxCreated with Sketch. 2 min read |

We closely and thoroughly examined the Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Openworked in steel (16204ST) when it was introduced for the RO´s 50th anniversary, as the model has become a reference for how Audemars Piguet approaches the skeletonisation of an icon. Since then, it has been followed by precious metal executions in white gold (16204BC) and yellow gold (16204BA). For 2026, AP expands the family again with the reference 16204XT, introducing a new material combination.

This latest Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Openworked keeps the familiar 39mm Jumbo form intact but replaces precious metal or steel with titanium and Bulk Metallic Glass (BMG). BMG, a palladium-based amorphous alloy, is used for the bezel and caseback frame, where its mirror-like polish and high scratch resistance contrast with the satin-brushed titanium mid-case. The screw-locked crown is made of titanium to maintain coherence, and the sapphire caseback reveals the movement. The 50m water-resistant case retains its dimensions: 39mm in diameter x 8.1mm thick.

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The dial side is where visual evolution happens. The openworked calibre 7124 is rhodium-toned, creating a monochromatic backdrop. Compared to earlier openworked Jumbos, which relied on warmer tones or stronger contrast, this version offers a cooler, more technical aesthetic. To make the openworked dial readable, AP uses blackened 18k white gold hour markers and hands, filled with luminescent material. A silver-grey inner bezel with minute markings frames the skeletonised calibre, as if separating the movement from the case.

Movement-wise, nothing changes. Calibre 7124 remains one of the thinnest (2.7mm) self-winding openworked movements currently in production. It operates at 28,800 vibrations/hour and offers a 57-hour power reserve. The movement’s openworked bridges, sharp internal angles and alternating finishes remain a showcase of AP’s skeletonisation expertise, visible from both sides.

The integrated bracelet follows the materials logic of the case, with titanium links and BMG studs. Like its predecessors, the Royal Oak Jumbo Extra-Thin Openworked 16204XT is not a limited edition, but production will be tightly controlled. Availability is expected to follow Audemars Piguet’s usual boutique-driven allocation; the price is upon request.

For more information, please visit AudemarsPiguet.com.

https://monochrome-watches.com/introducing-audemars-piguet-royal-oak-jumbo-extra-thin-openworked-16204xt-titanium-bmg-bulk-metallic-glass/

4 responses

  1. 8.1mm is not Ultra Thin and never will be. It may be thin or at a stretch Extra Thin but it is definitely not Ultra Thin. Ultra Thin watches are special and sub 5 mm with a small tolerance for being slightly thicker.

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  2. Hmmmm, I’d say this is skeletonized rather than openworked. The primary mechanisms aren’t necessarily brought to the fore as much as the bridges expose the workings beneath.

  3. Whilst this is a stunning watch and technically brilliant, I have one big issue with it to put it quite simply any watch that is much over 5mm irrespective of any complications can not be consider to be an Ultra Thin watch. Ultra Thin watches are extremely special due to the complexities of making them both thin and robust enough to work and are special for this. AP are not alone in making this marketing faux pas but it is just not being honest with their clients and IMHO is trying to suggest a watch is even more special than it really is, which in most cases is not even needed.

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