Monochrome Watches
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Introducing

A Duo of Audemars Piguet´s Openworked Perpetual Calendars, Powered by the Latest Calibre 7139

Now openworked, the new-generation QP movement powers two new AP references, each with its own character.

calendarCreated with Sketch. | ic_dehaze_black_24pxCreated with Sketch. By Denis Peshkov | ic_query_builder_black_24pxCreated with Sketch. 5 min read |

A perpetual calendar is a complication very much dear to Audemars Piguet. Since the mid-20th century, the manufacture in Le Brassus has offered many variations on how this “celestial” mechanism could be presented, displayed and used. From the world’s first leap-year perpetual calendar wristwatch in 1955, to the ultra-thin automatic QPs of the late 1970s, and later the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar, which became a cornerstone of the collection in the 1980s, AP has consistently pushed the genre forward. More recently, the brand entered a decisive new phase. The calibre 5134 (since 2015), itself an evolution of the legendary ultra-thin 2120 base (since 1967), reached the end of its lifecycle. Its openworked version, the 5135, last powered the AP Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked “150th Anniversary”. In place of 5134 came a new family of movements, first with calibre 7138 for closed-dial perpetual calendars (Royal Oak Ref. 26674 and Code 11.59 Ref. 26494), and now with calibre 7139, an openworked evolution that offers modern ergonomics and mechanics, and one of Audemars Piguet’s time-honoured decorative crafts. This new calibre debuts in two collections: Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet and the Royal Oak.

Code 11.59 Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar Openworked

For the Code 11.59 collection, this launch marks an important first. While the line has hosted perpetual calendars before, this is the first time it receives an openworked QP. The 41mm case combines 18-carat white gold with a black ceramic middle and retains the collection’s signature construction: a round bezel and caseback framing an octagonal core. The case boasts alternating polished and satin-brushed surfaces and is topped with the double-curved sapphire crystal. The caseback is transparent, and water resistance is 30m.

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The sapphire dial places Calibre 7139 front and centre. Transparent subdials with lightly smoked outer rings hover above the openworked movement. The perpetual calendar display follows a traditional layout: the day at 9 o’clock (with a 24-hour indicator and a no-correction zone marked in red between 9 PM and 3 AM), the date at 12, and the month and leap year at 3. The moon phases with a black aventurine disc are at 6. The small hands are red-tipped to guide the eye. On the dial´s periphery, the black ring is marked for the week indication by a central hand. The hour and minute hands in white gold are treated with lume, while the pink gold hour indices are rhodium-toned.

The Calibre 7139 brings AP’s patented all-in-one crown correction system to an openworked movement. All calendar functions can be adjusted via the crown alone, eliminating recessed correctors and improving both ergonomics and water resistance. The movement builds on calibre 7120, incorporating RD#2-inspired solutions that keep all calendar functions on a single layer. Despite its complexity, the movement measures 4.1mm thick, it operates at 28,800 vibrations/hour and delivers a 55-hour power reserve. It features hand-finished openworked bridges, sharp internal angles and traditional balance-spring fitting. The watch is worn on a black alligator strap with a white gold folding clasp.

Quick facts – 41mm x 10.6mm – white gold case, black ceramic middle – sapphire crystal front & back – 30m water-resistant – sapphire dial, smoked transparent subdials – aventurine moon phase – Calibre 7139, automatic – 4.1mm thick- 28,800 vph – 55h power reserve – perpetual calendar with week indication, day, date, astronomical moon, month, leap year, hours and minutes – black alligator strap with white gold folding clasp – 26443NB.OO.D002CR.01 – price on request

Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar Openworked

If the Code 11.59 expresses refinement, the Royal Oak version is about technical boldness. This new reference replaces the titanium/BMG openworked anniversary model and brings the Royal Oak QP firmly into the new calibre generation. The 41mm case combines lightweight titanium with Audemars Piguet’s proprietary Bulk Metallic Glass (BMG), a palladium-rich alloy with the distinctive mirror-like polish. Here, BMG is used for the bezel, caseback frame and bracelet studs, contrasting with the satin-brushed titanium surfaces. Water resistance is improved to 50m, a notable step forward for a Royal Oak perpetual calendar.

The sapphire dial offers a view of the openworked movement. The inclined inner flange carries the week number markings, and the minutes ring is one step closer to the dial´s centre. Smoked subdials maintain legibility while allowing the mechanism to shine through. Pink gold hour markers and hands, filled with luminescent material, add continuity with the pink gold-toned elements visible on the movement side.

Calibre 7139 appears again, unchanged in its technical foundations, with the crown-only correction system that simplifies daily use. As with the Code 11.59 QP, the openworked oscillating weight, barrel bridge and balance bridge feature pink gold tones, creating contrast against the grey movement components. The integrated titanium bracelet is accented with BMG studs and preserves the unmistakable Royal Oak look.

Quick facts – 41mm x 9.5mm – titanium case with BMG bezel – sapphire crystal front & back – 50m water-resistant – sapphire dial with smoked subdials, pink gold markers and hands – Calibre 7139, automatic – 4.1mm thick – 28,800vph – 55h power reserve – perpetual calendar with week indication, day, date, astronomical moon, month, leap year, hours and minutes – titanium bracelet with BMG studs – AP folding clasp – 26685XT.OO.1320XT.01 – price on request

Availability and Price

With Calibre 7139, Audemars Piguet reveals the future of its openworked perpetual calendars. Tradition is preserved through hand-finishing and crafts, while innovation is clearly expressed in ergonomics, construction and materials. These two watches show how AP plans to evolve one of its most emblematic complications. Prices are available on request through Audemars Piguet boutiques, and availability will remain highly limited, no surprise here.

For more details, please visit AudemarsPiguet.com.

https://monochrome-watches.com/introducing-audemars-piguet-perpetual-calendar-openworked-code-11-59-26443nb-royal-oak-26685xt-calibre-7139-specs-price/

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