Monochrome Watches
An online magazine dedicated to fine watches

Bvlgari’s new Rainbow and Colour Wave Serpenti Watches

A colourful and ultra high-end evolution of the iconic coiling snake watch for women.

| By Nina Scally | 4 min read |

Hands down, the luxurious Serpenti watch has to be Bvlgari’s most iconic timepiece to date. Inspired by Greek and Roman mythology and interpreting the stealth-like snake, the Serpenti watch collection has served as a cornerstone in the Roman brand’s heritage. It underscored the brand’s transition from lavish and highly detailed jewellery pieces to the addition of wristwatches for style-conscious women during the mid-1900s. Now, Bvlgari evolves the collection further with some vibrant and vivid iterations – the Bvlgari Serpenti Viper and the Bvlgari Serpenti Incantati. Having become internationally renowned for mastering the art of gemstone cutting and setting, these new interpretations are far from Bvlgari’s first gem-set watches. The Serpenti watch collection already boasts a rich tapestry of indulgent and sumptuous timepieces adorned with coloured gemstones. The new Rainbow and Colour Wave timepieces are a nod to Bvlgari’s “Mai Troppo” approach to watchmaking – no number of jewels is ever too much.

The history of the Bvlgari Serpenti watch

Bvlgari has reinterpreted the snake symbol in many ways since the first Serpenti watch debuted in the 1940s. The Serpenti Viper design was first released a few years back, characterised by trapezoidal scales cut from colourful gemstones. Three new variations are welcomed to this line as part of the new Rainbow and Colour Wave release this year. The Serpenti Incantati collection, which Bvlgari extends on with two new models, presents the snake in a slightly different form; the creature’s entire gem-set body is depicted coiling around the circular shape of the watch’s case and dial.

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Elizabeth Taylor with a Serpenti Tubogas in 1962 movie Cleopatra

In 2017 Bvlgari released the Serpenti Twist watch. Its design was compatible with a variety of coloured interchangeable leather straps. Watches from the Serpenti Seduttori range, however, are notably the most luxurious, with gem-set bracelets and a snakehead design richly embellished with precious stones and pear-shaped gemstone eyes. These versions were fitted to an open bangle-style strap that left a gap between the snake’s head and tail, doubling up as a piece of high-end jewellery.

Bulgari Serpenti

The most recognisable Bvlgari Serpenti watches are those incorporating the Tubogas design, fashioned on an innovative, flexible metal bracelet that wraps around the lady’s wrist anywhere between 1 to 5 times (depending on the design). From functional open-faced watches to secret watches that reveal the time only once the snake’s head is lifted to unveil a dial underneath– the gas pipe-inspired structure of the Tubogas bracelet took a painstaking ten years to perfect.

Bulgari Serpenti

The appeal of a Bvlgari Serpenti watch is owed to the brand’s focus on creating a completely independent design rather than a smaller version of an already-successful men’s model. Demonstrating Bvlgari’s playful and extravagant perspective on watch manufacture, the new Rainbow and Colour Wave iterations from the alluring Serpenti collection stull convey the mystery and curiosity behind the ancient snake symbol. The 18k gold Viper and Incantati models measure 26mm and 33mm respectively and are all powered by quartz.  

The new Rainbow and Colour Wave Bvlgari Viper watches

There are three new iterations to the circular Viper watch from the Serpenti collection. A rainbow model, a cool blue and white gold version and a warming pink gold and red timepiece. The Serpenti Viper Rainbow watch features a 26mm 18k rose gold case and dial, crafted into the iconic snakehead shape and set with 127 round brilliant-cut diamonds. Displaying a full kaleidoscope of colour and echoing the Viper collection’s distinct trapezoidal scales, the bracelet is set with blue, purple, yellow, orange and pink sapphires, red rubies, orange and red round spinels, spessartines in orange, garnets in yellow and green shades and round-shaped emeralds.

In cooler shades of Mediterranean blue and ice white, the Serpenti Viper Blue Colour Wave timepiece features an 18k white gold case and bracelet set with 229 round brilliant-cut sapphires in shades that span from light to dark, along with 90 brilliant-cut diamonds. Its 18k white gold dial is also adorned in a further 114 round brilliant-cut diamonds.

The Serpenti Viper Red Colour Wave watch is a warmer interpretation, featuring an 18k rose gold case and bracelet set with 163 round brilliant cut pink sapphires, round brilliant-cut red rubies, and round brilliant-cut diamonds. The rose gold dial is rendered in an additional 114 round brilliant-cut diamonds.

The new Rainbow and Colour Wave Bvlgari Incantati watches

The round 18k yellow gold case of the Serpenti Incantati Rainbow and its bracelet are set with 282 round brilliant-cut diamonds. The case is also decorated with round, oval and square-cut green tsavorites, round, oval and rectangle-cut yellow-orange sapphires, a mandarin garnet, spinels in shades of orange and red, red oval and fancy-shaped rubies, and a selection of oval, round and pear-cut sapphires in tones of pink, blue and purple. The 18k rose gold dial is showered with a further 150 round brilliant-cut diamonds.

The Serpenti Incantati Blue Colour Wave watch is crafted from 18k white gold and features a case set with 282 round brilliant-cut diamonds, round and fancy cut blue sapphires ranging from deep to medium colour and round and fancy shaped diamonds. To finish, the bracelet is meticulously set with 150 round brilliant-cut diamonds.

For more information on the new Rainbow and Colour Wave models from the Bvlgari Serpenti Viper and Incantati lines, visit

1 response

  1. Absolutely astonishing, I didn’t think it was possible to make watches as ugly and tacky as these. A triumph of bad taste.

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