The Hautlence Helix; Central Cylindrical Tourbillon and Double Retrograde Display

Born in 2004, Hautlence – whose name is an anagram of the Swiss city of Neuchâtel – has had its ups and downs but somehow remained dear to our hearts here at MONOCHROME. Disruptive, built around unusual time displays, housed in bold TV-shaped cases, the brand embarked on a new chapter in 2022 under the direction of the MELB Group, also owner of Moser. Now more contemporary and sportier, the brand has nevertheless kept what mattered: a strong visual identity and innovative indications of the time. And the brand’s latest creation, the new Hautlence Helix Series 1, isn’t going to change that. 

Taking a quick look at the new Hautlence Helix Series 1, there can be no doubt regarding the origin of the watch. It is Hautlence through and through. And it starts with the case, using the brand’s classic TV shape. However, just like the Linear, the Vagabonde or the Sphere (all watches created under the new era of the brand), the case has been reworked for better ergonomics and a more modern style. Crafted from grade 5 titanium, it measures 37mm in length, 45.10mm in width and a very reasonable 11.8mm in thickness (incl. sapphire crystals on the front and back). The case is also water-resistant to 100m, ensuring that your bold indie watch can be worn safely on a daily basis. The top crystal is a complex piece, designed with multiple curvatures to magnify the tourbillon in the centre of the display.

Let’s now talk about the display, something that has always been part of the DNA of the brand. Once again, the Hautlence Helix plays against the norm of the classic central hands. Instead, it relies on two retrograde indications for the hours and minutes, with the entire mechanism visible through the dial – all the cams, racks and levers are visible and their ballet, as you can see in the video below, makes for a great kinetic display. Placed right in the centre of the dial is the one-minute tourbillon with a cylindrical hairspring, a rare feat that is possible thanks to Hautlence’s sister company, Precision Engineering. It is flanked by two arched tracks for the hours and minutes, with bold numerals made from luminous Globolight material.

At the heart of the Hautlence Helix is the in-house calibre D51. This automatic movement is wound by a micro-rotor and stores up to 65 hours of power reserve. A shaped movement with a rectangular main plate, it includes 235 components and the central tourbillon beats at a 3Hz frequency. The decoration is deliberately brutalist, with matte and brushed surfaces; yet, a certain attention to detail is visible in this minimalist movement.

Worn on an interchangeable grey rubber strap with blue textile inserts, the Hautlence Helix Series 1 is a limited edition of 28 pieces and the first of probably more editions to follow. It is priced at CHF 75,000. For more details, please visit hautlence.com.