Watches created by Jaquet Droz might look classical and simple at first glance, however on closer observation they always feature a unique visual aspect. Whether it is the shape, the dial, or the complication(s), they always have that easily recognizable style that creates and shapes Jaquet Droz to be a brand with an interesting value. This year, for Baselworld 2015, there is a new edition of the Eclipse: the Jaquet Droz Eclipse Silver, featuring a full calendar and a moon phase indicator.
Recently, we had the chance to review one of the highlights from Baselworld 2014, the Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Quantieme Ivory Enamel; already one of Jaquet Droz’ most iconic timepieces that was a genuine pleasure to wear. As said, Jaquet Droz timepieces may look simple and classical, however this review also taught us that these classical and simple shaped have an incredible strong presence and are very elegant on the wrist. Something that is typical for the brand. Today we’re going to have a closer look at one of this year’s novelties, a new version of the Eclipse that for the first time comes with a silver coloured dial, and features the eclipse style moon phase indicator.
The Jaquet Droz Eclipse Silver features practical, and easy to read, complications. The calendar and moon phase displays do not clutter the dial, and it remains clean crisp and very legible. There’s a pointer date (a central ‘twisted’ hand point to the date around the perimeter of the dial), the day of the week, the month and the moon phases. The Jaquet Droz Eclipse features a so-called complete calendar, meaning that it requires correction of the date, for months with 30 or 28 days.
At 6 sits the moon phase indicator, displayed in an unusual way. Moon-phase indicators are often displayed by a rotating disc, which displays the phase of the moon. As the watch’ name already indicates, Jaquet Droz choose a rather unusual moon phase display.
From Wikipedia: An eclipse is an astronomical event that occurs when an astronomical object is temporarily obscured, either by passing into the shadow of another body or by having another body pass between it and the viewer.
The moon phase indicator on the Jaquet Droz The Eclipse, the moon is not displayed by a rotating disc, however it is fixed on the dial. The phases of the moon are indicated by a retrograde hand that passes over the fixed moon, and ‘temporarily obscures‘ it. To enliven this rather clean silver dial, 8 stars are applied around the moon.
The Jaquet Droz Eclipse is powered by the in-house movement calibre 6553L2, which is also used in the Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Quantieme Ivory Enamel – however with a different top module. This movement comes with a double barrel and sports 68 hours of power reserve and an antimagnetic silicon balance wheel. Even if it is still based on a Piguet 1150, the modifications are important and the decoration specific – and pleasant, with star-shaped Geneva-Stripes (starting from the center of the balance wheel), bevelled angles on the bridges and circular graining on the main plate and bridges (both on the upper and lower sides and on hidden parts). The rotor is partially skeletonized and comes with a 3D engraving and chamfered arms.
The 43mm x 12.99mm stainless case could be seen as large in the context of a dress watch, however, when we reviewed the Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Quantieme Ivory Enamel (that has the same dimensions), we found these dimensions balanced and well-proportioned on the wrist. Furthermore, the comfort on the wrist is not debatable and the execution is impressive (in this price range).
The Jaquet Droz Eclipse Silver (Ref. J012630240) gives access to a complicated watch, with a nice in-house movement, pleasant finishing’s (both for the case, the dial and the movement) and an interesting display without being as expensive as a perpetual / annual calendar. Price: 14.800 Euros.