The PanoMatic Lunar and PanoReserve are revisited in 2019 in gleaming red gold cases with the du jour dial colour. This is not the first time the PanoMaticLunar and the PanoReserve feature blue dials, both models have flaunted blue dials in the past but were housed in stainless steel cases. The contrast with the red gold intensifies the blue and takes the aesthetics to a whole new level. Naturally, the technical characteristics and the iconic asymmetry that distinguish this eminently Saxon line of watches have not been touched.
Saxon good looks
The distinctive asymmetric traits of the PanoReserve and PanoMaticLunar define the very essence of Glashütte Original watches. With the two off-centred sub-dials for the hours, minutes and small seconds on the left half of the dial and the large Panorama Date on the lower right at 4 o’clock, the main difference between the two models is the use of the space between 2 and 3 o’clock. The PanoReserve uses this area for its elegant retrograde power reserve indicator; the PanoMaticLunar instead uses it for a moon-phase indication. Somehow, all the disparate elements on the dial converge to create a very pleasing and harmonious whole thanks to the application of the Golden Ratio.
into the wide blue yonder
As many of you know, Glashütte Original has its own dial manufacture in Pforzheim with a tradition for beautiful handmade dials. The brand is one of the few watchmakers to produce its own dial blanks, using materials such as brass, German silver, bronze or gold. The rich blue colour of these dials is the result of a galvanic process. The dials are submerged in a galvanic bath for a certain amount of time and the voltage is sustained at the correct level. Timing is of the essence and has to be strictly controlled to achieve the exact shade of blue required. The elaboration of the grooved “vinyl” pattern decorating the time function discs is also strictly monitored to obtain the desired effect and correct alignment. The applied hour markers, that look like miniature gold ingots, stand out against the intense blue dial and the Alpha-shaped red gold hands for the hours and minutes are treated with SuperLumiNova.
The iconic Panorama Date window with its double bevelled frame features a crisp blue background and white pad-printed numerals for maximum contrast. The moon-phase indicator, housed in a bosom-shaped aperture at 2 o’clock, is also beautifully executed with a highly defined bevelled edge that draws the eye to the golden moon and stars set against a white background. Also produced in Pforzheim, the two golden domed moons are turned out using a diamond-tipped tool for extra brilliance and the starry silvery sky is achieved with another kind of galvanic dip.
Automatic or hand-wound movements
Both models are housed in 18k red gold cases with a diameter of 40mm and beautifully polished and satin-brushed finishes. The difference between the cases lies in their height: the PanoMatic Lunar has a case thickness of 12.70mm while the PanoReserve is 1mm thinner with a thickness of 11.70mm. As its name indicates, the PanoMaticLunar runs on an automatic movement – Calibre 90-02 – while the PanoReserve, with its leaner profile, is fitted with a traditional manual-winding movement – Calibre 65-01. Although both calibres offer the same performance – running at 4Hz with a 42-hour power reserve – the view through the sapphire caseback changes radically.
The automatic calibre 90-02 reveals part of the characteristic Glashütte three-quarter plate, the duplex swan-neck fine adjustment and the hand-engraved balance cock. Occupying most of the three-quarter plate is the off-centred skeletonised rotor with its 21k gold oscillating weight. In the centre of the skeletonised rotor, two gold G’s representing Glashütte Original’s logo are placed back to back.
The manual-winding calibre 65-01 is a beauty and not marred by the presence of a rotor. Here you can truly appreciate the thick Glashütte Stripes on the three-quarter plate, the exquisite hand-engraved balance cock, the bevelled edges, and the touches of colour provided by the blued steel screws and ruby-red jewels.
It is surprising how a different combination of case material and dial colour produces a very different watch. The rich 18k red gold case and deep blue dial are well-matched and exalt each other’s best features. Although I am a sucker for moon phase watches, if I were given the choice, I would go for the PanoReserve. There are loads of moon phase watches on the market, but that elegant triangle for the Gangreserve (power reserve) is so perfect, so academic, and so Saxon that my heart melts for PanoReserve. Which is your favourite?
Straps, availability and price
Both the PanoMaticLunar and the PanoInverse red gold models come with a dark blue alligator leather strap to match the dial and a pin buckle in red gold. They are also available with a red gold fold fastener and a red gold short fold fastener. The price is exactly the same for the PanoMaticLunar and PanoInverse starting at EUR 18,400 for the red gold and pin buckle versions while the models on red gold fold fasteners retail for EUR 20,200 (incl. VAT). They are now available in stores. More details at www.glashuette-original.com.