Revisiting the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Openworked in White Gold

Initially introduced in 2022 as part of the 50th-anniversary celebrations of the Royal Oak, the Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Openworked was first released in steel (reference 16204ST), featuring a steel-grey skeletonized movement and contrasting pink gold hands and indices. Following this, the watch was also made available in pink, yellow and white gold cases. While the steel version is no longer available, the gold-cased references are not designated as limited anniversary editions, making them available based on production capacity. As such, they may be purchased directly from the brand but keep in mind; conditions apply.

Though the coloured gold versions are undeniably striking – especially the pink gold variant with its contrasting openworked dark grey dial – it is the sleek white metal version of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Openworked that continues to captivate and excite. Thus, we felt it was time for another report on our experience with this iconic timepiece.

The white gold 16204BC may be the finest iteration of the skeletonized “Jumbo.” There’s nothing to criticize about this model (disregarding price and availability). It features the classic Royal Oak design with a 39mm diameter, 8.1mm thickness, and a 48.6mm lug-to-lug measurement. The quality of the finishing on the bezel, case, case back, and bracelet, including the folding clasp, is exceptional. The watch feels fantastic on the wrist and is a remarkable timepiece, iconic or not.

Beyond its status, which could be a forgiving designator, this openworked, time-only, monochromatic Royal Oak boasts an aesthetically pleasing design. The black, sloping inner bezel with crisp minute markings creates a visual frame for the striking dark grey open-worked calibre 7124, drawing attention to the intricacies of the watch. Unlike traditional skeletonized movements that often offer a see-through image, this construction presents a multi-level experience, with the white gold hands contrasting beautifully against the movement below or blending with it, depending on the light angle. The powerful, contemporary look that the movement conveys is enhanced with the hand finishes; every element is impeccable, and the watch invites an exploration that can easily last for hours. Enlarge the images we share here and enjoy how harmoniously perfect everything is!

The appeal of the openworked Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin is naturally linked to its iconic case and bracelet design, but that’s only part of the story. It’s like a classic car upgraded with a modern engine and drivetrain – except here, you get the added pleasure of seeing the inner workings. While the “regular Jumbo” also features a new engine, this version reveals it in all its glory.

Speaking of engines, the calibre 7124 operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour and provides 57 hours of power reserve. It was developed alongside the 7121 employed in the classic closed-dial “Jumbo” ref. 16202ST, and achieves its slim profile by omitting the date mechanism. The display caseback continues to showcase the exceptional standards of the movement’s hand-finishing, with altogether no fewer than 300 polished angles – but who’s counting?

Our editorial format typically calls for concluding thoughts, but let’s try something different. Imagine you’re offered a choice between the 16202BC and the 16204BC at the same price (though they are priced quite differently in reality). How would you decide? You can list the pros and cons or simply explain your decision. This exercise might lead to an unexpected revelation.

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