In true H. Moser & Cie. style, the personality of one of its most complex watches bows to the brand’s philosophy of ‘less is more’. The combination of a minute repeater and a tourbillon in any other watchmaker’s hands would probably be interpreted with extravagant flourishes: not at Moser. Launched in 2019, the Endeavour Concept Minute Repeater Tourbillon is a study in strict minimalism. The design is subservient to the complications. The only elements on the dial – apart from the hands – are the large aperture for the tourbillon and the exposed hammers and gong of the minute repeater. Originally presented with an inky black dial in a white gold case, the watch returns in 2021 with an Electric Blue dial and a titanium case.
Rejuvenating traditional complications
When Moser presented its Endeavour Concept Minute Repeater Tourbillon, it proved that traditional old-school complications could be staged and benefit from a minimalist, contemporary setting. Convinced that the spectacle of the complications was more interesting than superfluous decorative flourishes, Moser carved out large apertures on the dial to highlight the flying tourbillon and the action of the hammers.
This 2021 edition takes the concept one step further. By exchanging the white gold case for a lightweight titanium case, and the austere black dial with an Electric Blue dial, Moser has reframed these traditional complications in an even more contemporary light. Like other ‘concept’ watches at Moser, the dial is stripped of logos, indices and anything that might distract your gaze from the complications.
The novelty here is the Electric Blue dial, a new colour in Moser’s repertoire that captures the brand’s penchant for cool, contemporary colours. Less stern than the black dial model, the Electric Blue dial is younger and trendier. However, unlike many dials displaying Moser’s seductive fumé technique, this dial only features a sunburst pattern and no dégradé effect.
The entire chiming mechanism is placed on the dial (between 9 and 11 o’clock). To pull off this complex dial-side arrangement, Moser enlisted the expertise of Timeless SA, a specialist in minute repeaters. To avoid interfering with the flying tourbillon and stick to Moser’s mandate of understated design, the gongs had to be curved and placed on one level. If tuning round gongs is already challenging, tuning curved gongs is another story. The one-minute flying tourbillon is placed in a large aperture at 6 o’clock with a skeletonised bridge to enhance the view.
The incorporation of a minute repeater mechanism on the dial and its acoustic requirements could have resulted in an extremely large and thick case. Moser’s watch, with its 43mm diameter and 14mm height, retains reasonable dimensions. The geometry of the case has been adapted and hollowed internally to maximise the properties of titanium and enhance its resonance. To activate the minute repeater, the slider on the caseband has been mounted on a Teflon runner to glide smoothly.
Below the sapphire crystal caseback is Moser’s HMC 903 manual-winding movement. Co-developed with Timeless SA, and composed of more than 400 parts, it beats at 21,600vph and offers a resilient power reserve of 90 hours. Displaying double Moser stripes on the plate and bridges, the movement and components are finished and decorated by hand.
Availability & Price
The titanium and blue dial Endeavour Concept Minute Repeater Tourbillon comes on an elegant hand-stitched black alligator leather strap with red lining and a titanium pin buckle. It is limited to 20 pieces and retails for CHF 330,000.
More information at H. Moser & Cie.