Monochrome Watches
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First Look

The All-Black Octo Roma Steel DLC Automatic & Chronograph

Powerful monochromatic looks for two Octo Roma models.

| By Rebecca Doulton | 5 min read |

Ancient Rome is a constant well of inspiration at Bulgari that deftly transforms architectural motifs from the past into fresh, stylish designs. The dynamic geometry of the Octo Roma, released in 2012 and refreshed in 2023, is said to have been inspired by the octagonal coffering found on the vaults of the 4th-century Basilica of Maxentius in the Roman Forum. Now in its sportier, more robust and less angular format, the Octo Roma revisits two models – a time-and-date and a chronograph – dressed from head-to-toe in black.

An iconic Bulgari collection, the Octo Roma was the departure point for the record-breaking Octo Finissimo legion. Revisited over the years, the latest facelift corresponds to 2023, when the Octo Roma’s case became less angular and more rounded. The idea was to position the Octo Roma as an alternative to the ultra-thin Octo Finissimo, offering more robust, sportier cases and increased versatility thanks to the quick-release interchangeable strap system.

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Black is the operative word of the new Octo Roma models, a concept introduced in the first Octo Ultranero piece of 2017. The Octo Roma models share black DLC stainless steel cases, black Clous de Paris dials, and black interchangeable textured rubber straps with a Clous de Paris motif  (there is an additional black alligator strap in the box). Fitted with screw-down black ceramic-tipped crowns and crown protectors, the cases are water-resistant to 100 metres. Other shared features are the hour markers and hands treated with Super-LumiNova.

Octo Roma Automatic

The Octo Roma Automatic time-and-date model has a 41mm black DLC stainless steel case with a thickness of 9.15mm. While the matte black tends to attenuate the case’s octagonal geometry, it endows the watch with a more beguiling and mysterious spirit.

Previously available with blue, grey, and white Clous de Paris dials, the all-black treatment extends to the dial. From a distance, the dial might seem uniform, but close up, each pyramid-shaped Clous de Paris comes into focus as their surfaces catch the light. In the dark, the applied metallic indices, Arabic numerals at 12 and 6 o’clock, and the hour and minute hands glow with their Super-LumiNova treatment. The date window at 3 o’clock has a black background and white numerals to blend in with the dial.

Turning the watch over reveals the in-house automatic calibre BVL191 Solotempo produced in-house by Bulgari’s manufacture in Le Sentier and assembled in Neuchâtel. The movement – that has not been given the black treatment – is pleasantly finished with thin Geneva stripes on the bridges and bidirectional rotor. It beats at 28,800vph and delivers a power reserve of 42 hours. The Octo Roma Automatic Steel DLC retails for EUR 8,900

Quick facts: 41mm diameter x 9.15mm thickness – black DLC stainless steel – screw-down crown with black ceramic tip and crown guards – sapphire crystals front and back – 100m water-resistance – black Clous de Paris dial – applied indices and numerals treated with Super-LumiNova – hour and minutes hands with SLN – date window at 3 o’clock – calibre BVL191 Solotempo – in-house, automatic – 28,800vph – 42h power reserve –  quick-release interchangeable strap system – textured black rubber strap and black alligator strap with pin buckle – ref. 103927 – EUR 8,900

Octo Roma Chronograph

Introduced in 2023, the Octo Roma Chronograph is the first to be powered by the new BVL399 calibre (a Bulgari base with a Dubois-Dépraz module). Available with blue and black Clous de Paris dials, the latest version varies in that its stainless steel case is coated with black DLC. One of the most admired features of the 42mm case, with a thickness of 12.4mm, is the way the chronograph pushers have been integrated. In fact, they are so well integrated that they are almost invisible and could pass as part of the Octo Roma’s complex geometry. The screw-down crown, with its black ceramic tip, is protected by crown guards, ensuring a water-resistance of 100 metres.

In contrast to the Clous de Paris dial, the sub-dials are snailed with black hands and white markings: the small seconds are at 3, the 12-hour chronograph totaliser at 6 and the 30-minute elapsed times at 9 o’clock. The date window is placed at an angle at 4:30 and, with its black background, remains relatively discreet. Like the simpler time-and-date model, the indices and the Arabic numeral 12 are treated with Super-LumiNova along with the hour and minute hands. The central chronograph seconds hand is black, probably making it quite difficult to track in poor light conditions.

The sapphire window on the caseback offers a view of the BVL399 automatic movement, which, at first glance, looks identical to the BVL191 powering the time-and-date Octo Roma. As mentioned above, this calibre unites Bulgari’s in-house BVL191 Solotempo with a Dubios-Dépraz chronograph module. Beating at 28,800vph, the power reserve is of 42 hours. The Octo Roma Chronograph retails for EUR 10,900.

Quick facts: 42mm diameter x 12.4mm thickness – black DLC stainless steel – screw-down crown with black ceramic tip and crown guards – sapphire crystals front and back – 100m water-resistance – black Clous de Paris dial – applied indices, numeral 12 and hour and minute hands treated with Super-LumiNova – date window at 4.30 – three snailed sub-dials with black hands and white markings (small seconds at 3, 12-hour counter at 6 and 30-minute totaliser at 9 o’clock) – black central chronograph seconds hand – calibre BVL 399 (in-house BVL191 automatic with Dubois-Dépraz module) – 28,800vph – 42h power reserve – quick-release interchangeable strap system – textured black rubber strap and black alligator strap with pin buckle – ref. 103932 – EUR 10,900

For more information, please visit Bvlgari.com.

https://monochrome-watches.com/first-look-bvlgari-bulgari-octo-roma-all-black-dlc-steel-chronograph-automatic-watches-and-wonders-live-pics-specs-price/

1 response

  1. To me, the black DLC downplays the shape here. Maybe it’d be different in person. I still like this quite a bit…my favorite Octo is the Solotempo Ultranero with the rose gold indices from several years ago, but this is nice.

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