The Europe-Only Platinum Tank Louis Cartier Limited Edition

While the name Santos often comes to mind when speaking about Cartier watches, it would be more precise in this instance to talk about the brand’s first wristwatch – and most probably one of the earliest purpose-built wristwatches. In fact, when talking about watches in general, the first (pocket)watches by Cartier appeared as early as 1853, only six years after the creation of the atelier by Louis-François Cartier. To celebrate 170 years of watchmaking, today, the brand is releasing an appealing new limited edition based on the hand-wound Tank Louis Cartier LM, exclusive to the European market, combining a platinum case with an Art Deco blue dial. 

Despite being named LM or Large Model, what we’re looking at today is a truly modest watch, at least regarding its proportions. Is this a bad thing? Not at all. It’s sometimes rather refreshing to strap such a compact watch on the wrist, specifically when we’re talking about one with the sheer elegance of the Tank Louis Cartier. This watch is perhaps what most will see as the quintessential Tank. While the recent Tank Normale is even closer in style to the original model of 1917, the Tank Louis Cartier, which was first presented in 1922, probably has the most emblematic design of all. Slightly softer, with more rounded brancards on the sides, it is all about restrained elegance.

Recent re-editions of the Tank Louis Cartier have been designed with a simple goal in mind (besides being classic Tank Louis Cartier in shape)… Reviving the vintage Must de Cartier’s spirit in a contemporary way, with glossy coloured dials and a strong Art Deco spirit. The limited edition of today pays tribute to the Decorative Arts Exhibition of 1925, in addition to being a celebration of 170 years of watchmaking at Cartier.

The overall idea behind this Europe-only Tank Louis Cartier, isn’t entirely new. In fact, we’ve seen almost identical models released in the past years, either with a rose gold case and a grey dial or a yellow gold case with a red dial. What makes the present watch unique is its combination of materials and colours. The base is, however, identical with a modestly sized case of less than 34mm in length with a diameter of 25.5mm. The case is only 6.6mm thick… Compared to the vast majority of the watches now available on the market, we’re definitely talking about vintage proportions. And this is for the best.

Framing a mineral glass (Cartier seems reluctant to use sapphire on many of these small Tanks, like the recent Cintrée) is a classic Tank case with rounded polished brancards and brushed inter-lugs made of 950 platinum. As with all watches in this material, the beaded crown features a ruby cabochon. The back is solid platinum too, and in addition to specific engravings for this limited run, some space has been left for a personalised engraving.

The dial, which isn’t new in design but only in colour, features a very fine pattern obtained by laser engraving. The interplay of differently angled lines gives an impression of depth and of several colours, but it’s all due to how the light catches the texture. The deep blue colour, which pairs nicely with the cold tone of platinum, is obtained by PVD treatment.  Four oversized Roman numerals adorn the otherwise restrained dial displaying only the hours and minutes.

Inside this European Tank Louis Cartier is a well-known hand-wound movement, the calibre 1917MC. Mostly notable for its compact dimensions and thinness, this manufacture movement was first developed for mechanical feminine watches but now finds its way into more vintage-oriented and modestly sized watches. It is an oval-shaped movement that runs at 3Hz and stores 38 hours of power reserve.

Worn on a semi-matte blue alligator strap, this Tank Louis Cartier Limited Edition (ref. CRWGTA0121) will be made in 170 pieces only. It will be priced at EUR 13,800 (excl. taxes), which makes it relatively accessible and with a reasonable premium compared to a gold version (which isn’t always the case…) For more details, please visit cartier.com.