De Bethune announced to launch an entire new collection, the DB27 collection, and they start with the DB27 Titan Hawk. Not a bad start for this new collection if you ask me!
Especially when you consider the use of an entire new in-house movement in the superbly comfortable case with ‘floating lugs’ that was first used in the award winning DB28. While De Bethune celebrates its 10th anniversary this year, the new DB27 shows what they have accomplished over the last 10 years. A magnificent collection of the finest watches, or shall I call it object d’art de temps?
De Bethune’s master watchmaker Denis Flageolet is a ‘mad professor’ when it comes to improving the balance wheel and he experimented with many different materials and shapes to improve this regulating organ of mechanical watches. And there’s more. He invented a temperature-compensating silicon balance spring, a two armed silicon balance with platinum inertia blocks, an annular balance with silicon centre contained within a platinum ring and a cage-less tourbillion constructed from silicon/platinum and a small amount of steel. I know, this sounds abacadabra, however the section on De Bethune’s website explaining everything about De Bethune’s patents is a well recommended read!
The other person from De Bethune who does groundbreaking work, is David Zanetta, who creates the most fascinating designs for the wrist or object d’art de temps as I called it before. The case he designed for the DB27 features the so-called floating lugs which are fitted with a patented system of springs that enables the watch to adjust to the wrist and to its wearer’s movements. Maximum comfort!
The DB27 showcases a central seconds hand that was first used in the new DB10 last year. Its design however is much different. The DB27 measures 43 mm in diameter and is 12 mm thick and its new designed case is made of titanium that is mirror-polished by hand. Titanium is incredibly difficult to polish and if one small mistake is made it’s possible that the material breaks due to the heat that is caused by the polishing.
The DB27’s movement, caliber S233, features the silicon and white gold annular balance wheel that is exceptional light and enables the balance wheel to reduce mechanical friction and deliver an ideal inertia/mass ratio. It also features a balance spring with flat terminal curve, compensates for off-centering and facilitates its fastening. The caliber is named S233, after the specific gravity of silicon, and powers the central hour, minute and date functions.
Let me end by listing the main features of caliber S233:
Movement: Calibre S233 – self-regulating twin barrel – barrels are specifically designed to eliminate friction and efficiently transmit a maximum of energy.
- Mainplate hand-decorated and snailed, hand-chamfered and polished steel parts
- Triple pare-chute shock-absorbing system which reduces potential disturbances due to impacts to an absolute minimum and protects the balance-spring pivots.
- Jewelling: 34 jewels
- Frequency: 28,800 vibrations per hour
- Power reserve: 6 days
Please visit De Bethune’s website for more information and make sure to check out the Technology section!
The price will be around CHF 40,000 (ex taxes).
This article is written by Frank Geelen, executive editor for Monochrome Watches.