Chronoswiss unveiled a new collection of regulators at Baselworld 2019 with three dial options and two case sizes, totalling six pieces to choose from. These are evolutions of the original Classic Regulator line with updated dials, hands, cases and bracelets, taking on new personalities without abandoning the original formula. The new watches have a sportier, more youthful aesthetic and represent an entry to the extensive portfolio of regulator watches from Chronoswiss, the brand that does this style best. Let’s take a closer look at the Chronoswiss Regulator Classic 37 and 41.
These new Regulator Classics have a direct lineage to the original Régulateur from 1987, which had a clean, symmetrical dial layout without adornments. That piece led to the newer Regulator Manufacture, an almost identical twin that added two guilloché patterns to the dial for a more upscale presence. The Flying Regulator collections with multi-dimensional dials and advanced complications have taken the style to new heights. Still, there’s always a place for the simpler, classic regulator aesthetic.
Note: photographed here are only the 41mm models.
CASE AND DESIGN
The earlier Classic Regulators have 40mm diameter cases, while the new line offers either 37mm or 41mm cases. The shift allows for a broader audience with pieces more palatable for women – and the broader Eastern markets where Chronoswiss is popular. The stainless steel cases are very similar otherwise, although the bezel has changed a bit on the new models. The height of the 37mm models is 10.7mm, while the 41mm models are thicker at 12.7mm. The polished bezel is a bit narrower and flatter than on the older models, but the classic Chronoswiss elements remain intact – knurled rings on the top and bottom of the case, oversized onion crown and sloping lugs with exposed screws.
The case of the Chronoswiss Regulator Classic has a mix of polished and brushed elements, and a sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating covers the dial. The exhibition caseback has a sapphire window as well, displaying the Calibre C. 295 automatic. Both the 37mm and 41mm cases are water-resistant to 100 meters.
DIAL AND HANDS
Three dial options are available for the Chronoswiss Regulator Classic, including galvanic blue, galvanic silver and a galvanic grey and black combination – the blue version can be seen in the video on top. Following the design elements of the earlier Classic, the top hour sub-dial is significantly larger than the bottom seconds one, and both feature a “solar” guilloché pattern. The two-tone (grey and black) dial features a red Roman numeral at 12 o’clock. A minute track spans the perimeter with numerals printed every five minutes.
The Trigono-style hour and minute hands are a bit more contemporary than the older Feuille hands and have Super-LumiNova inlays that the others lacked. The hands are either Rhodium-plated (and lacquered) or thermally blued, depending on the dial.
The heart of all six Chronoswiss Regulator Classic models is the Calibre C. 295 automatic, differing from the Calibre C. 291 in the older models. It has 27 jewels, beats at 28,800vph (4Hz) with a 42-hour power reserve. That’s up a bit from the C. 291’s 38 hours. Functions include central minutes with sub-dial hours and hacking sub-dial seconds. Although the movement is a modified ETA calibre, the regulator module is both designed and produced in-house. Seen from the exhibition caseback, the movement features Côtes de Genève, perlage and blued screws.
The stainless steel bracelet is a highlight this time as they’ve been redesigned for the new models. The older “rice” style bracelet has been updated with large, brushed central links flanked by narrower polished links, and secures with a steel folding clasp. The bracelet is standard on all new models as it was only an option on one model last time. It has a bold, modern aesthetic that adds a sporty touch to the line.
Recent Chronoswiss headlines have focused on the Flying Regulator collections that are sophisticated, sometimes even futuristic takes of the regulator style. It’s good to see the brand continuing to embrace the simpler, more traditional aesthetic that keeps the overall portfolio well-diversified. The new Chronoswiss Regulator Classic watches aren’t a radical departure from the original Regular Classics, but the small changes make an impact and the new bracelets add a visual punch.
All six Chronoswiss Regulator Classic retail for CHF 4,750 or EUR 4,650, which is unusual as larger models tend to command a premium. For more information and orders, visit Chronoswiss.com.