A full calendar with moon phases sails into the Adamavi family bringing some welcome complications to this elegant dress watch collection. Not as well-known as the Manero or Patravi families, since last autumn Bucherer has turned its attention to its Adamavi collection composed of classic round his/her watches with slim profiles and straightforward functions. The latest 39mm Full Calendar models come fast on the heels of the Adamavi Autodate, a three-hand & date model released last autumn with colourful dials and a practical Milanese bracelet. Available with a black or silver dial and the choice of a classic leather strap or a more contemporary integrated steel bracelet, the Adamavi Full Calendar combines practical functions in a classy, understated package.
Bucherer has several calendar watches in its line-up ranging from the sophisticated retro-style Heritage Bicompax Annual calendar model to the action-packed Manero Chronoperpetual with chronograph and perpetual calendar. There is also a Manero Moonphase model that is, in fact, a full calendar watch powered by the automatic CFB 1966 calibre, just like the new Adamavi watches.
A full calendar, also known as a complete and even triple calendar, displays the day of the week, the date, the month and, in some cases, the phases of the moon. Like most full calendar watches calibrated to 31-day cycles, the watch will need five adjustments a year to ensure the correct date is displayed (at the end of February, April, June, September and November).
Although the layout of the functions on the Manero Moonphase and Adamavi Full Calendar is almost identical, the mood of the watches is quite different. The day of the week and month are placed in a conventional configuration of two rectangular apertures just below the 12 o’clock marker. However, instead of housing the date in a traditional window, it relies on a pointer-date device with a central ring with numerals and a white or black bracket-style hand. This solution for the date is easy to consult and means that valuable dial space is allowed to ‘breathe’. The moon phases, also located in a traditional bosom-shaped aperture above the 6 o’clock marker, add a whimsical touch to the sober dial.
Available in silver or black, the dial displays an elegant vertical satin finish with slim applied bar indices in a warm rose gold tone. The date ring is snailed for contrast with Arabic numerals to match the colour of the peripheral minute markers. The hour, minute and needle-thin seconds hands match the colour of the indices, and in keeping with the dressy appeal of the watch are not treated with luminescent material. In fact, none of the furnishings on the dial has lume.
The polished, round, stainless steel case, with its diameter of 39mm and a height of 10.10mm, has a prominent bezel and a large crown with three recessed correctors embedded in the caseband to adjust the functions. The short lugs can host a more classic blue or black alligator strap with a pin buckle or a more practical and contemporary stainless steel bracelet with folding clasp. Note that when the Adamavi Full Calendar is worn on a bracelet, the case is different and doesn’t feature proper lugs, but a module connecting it to the case instead. The bracelet should supple and comfortable, with seven interlaced and polished links.
Beneath the sapphire crystal caseback is the automatic CFB 1966 calibre, an ETA 2892 with a Dubois-Depraz calendar module on top and a power reserve of 42 hours. A robust and effective movement that helps to retain the price in a reasonable range.
The price of the Adamavi Full Calendar varies according to the strap. The models (black or silver dial) on a black or blue alligator leather strap with pin buckle retail for EUR 3,350, the models with integrated steel bracelets for EUR 3,650.
More information at Carl F. Bucherer.