Slimming Things Down Part I – Five Of Today’s Best Ultra-Thin Watches

It’s often said that ultra-thin watchmaking should be considered a complication in itself, and there’s a lot of merit to that statement. Making a watch slimmer than, let’s say, a millimetre or six, seven, is a considerable challenge to overcome. Often, it demands a different philosophy as to how a watch and, even more so, a movement, is constructed. Things get even more complicated when you’re talking about going beyond that. It’s not just a simple matter of shaving off more and more material and calling it a day. And although the watches in this week’s Buying Guide might not be of record-breaking thinness, and we could have filled the entire list with Bulgari’s brilliant Octo Finissimo, we decided to prove there is plenty of versatility to be found in the field of Ultra-Thin Watchmaking. 

Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic Black DLC

The Octo Finissimo is one of the most impressive watchmaking sagas of recent times. Starting in 2014, it has rewritten the rulebook on ultra-thin watchmaking and defied convention on all levels. From simple automatic models to perpetual calendars, tourbillon and minute repeaters, Bulgari has gone all-out with the collection. One of the best-looking ones, and one fit for everyday life, is this Octo Finissimo Automatic Black DLC. The edgy and stealthy case measures a slim 5.00mm in height, thanks to the ultra-thin Calibre BVL 183 micro-rotor automatic. Part of the permanent collection, it retails for EUR 17,000 incl. VAT.

For more information, please visit Bulgari.com.

Quick Facts – 40mm x 5.00mm – black DLC coated titanium case, sandblasted – sapphire crystal front & back – 30m water-resistant – matte black dial with glossy transfers – black hands – Calibre BVL 138, in-house – micro-rotor automatic – 2.23mm thickness – 21,600vph – 60h power reserve – hours, minutes, small seconds – black textured rubber strap with black DLC coated titanium pin buckle – permanently available – EUR 17,000 (incl. VAT)

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra-Thin Date

On the more classical side of things, and fitted with a tasty copper- or salmon-coloured dial, sits the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra-Thin Date. Considered as one of the true experts in the field, the Master Ultra-Thin Date is one of JLC’s finest and comes in at a mere 7.89mm in height against a diameter of 39mm. The proportions, the dial colour and texture, the fine markers and hands make for a very well-balanced dress watch with a slight contemporary touch. Add to that an in-house automatic movement of just 3.3mm, and you have a real winner on your hands. Worn on a brown alligator leather strap, it retails for EUR 10,400.

For more information, please visit Jaeger-LeCoultre.com.

Quick Facts – 39mm x 7.89mm – stainless steel case, polished – sapphire crystal front & back – 50m water-resistance – copper-coloured dial with grained texture – applied faceted indices & hands – bevelled date window – Calibre 899, in-house – automatic winding – 3.3mm thickness – 218 components – 28,800vph – 70h power reserve – brown alligator leather strap with steel folding buckle – limited edition of 800 pieces – EUR 10,400

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin

Just a hair thinner but a lot more complex is the Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin. The compact 36.5mm case, here crafted in rose gold, although a slightly subtler white gold version is also available, tops out at just 8.43mm in height. Despite this very modest frame and multitude of indications, it remains a very legible watch altogether. The movement itself is just 4.05mm thin, which is quite incredible considering it uses 276 components. It’s fitted to a brown alligator leather strap with a matching rose gold pin buckle, and retails for CHF 86,500, which is about the only non-ultra-thin thing about the watch.

For more information, please visit Vacheron-Constantin.com.

Quick Facts – 36.5mm x 8.43mm – rose gold case, polished – sapphire crystal front & back – 30m water-resistant – silver-toned opaline dial – perpetual calendar display with recessed subdials & moon phase – Calibre 1120 QP, in-house – automatic winding – 4.05mm height – 276 components – 19,800vph (2.75Hz) – 40h power reserve – Hallmark of Geneva – full perpetual calendar display – brown alligator leather strap with gold pin buckle – CHF 86,500

Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold Skeleton

The Daniel Roth Extra-Plat Rose Gold Skeleton sits on the more expressive side of the ultra-thin spectrum. As the name suggests, this slim watch comes in precious metal and houses a fully openworked movement, drawing you in to admire the rather splendid construction and finishing. The ellipsocurvex case is a thing of beauty, and measures just 6.9mm in height, against a movement of only 3.1mm in thickness. And although it only tells you the hours and minutes, you’ll waste plenty of time admiring it. As part of the permanent collection, it comes on a beige calfskin leather strap with a gold pin buckle. The price is CHF 85,000.

For more information, please visit DanielRoth.com.

Quick Facts – 38.6mm x 35.5mm x 6.9mm – ellipsocorvex case in rose gold, polished – shaped sapphire crystal front & back – 30m water-resistant – openworked dial – blued steel arrowhead hands – Calibre DR002SR, made by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton – manual winding – 3.1mm height – 141 components – 28,800vph – 65h power reserve – beige calfskin leather strap with rose gold pin buckle – permanent collection – CHF 85,000

Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon Khaki Green

Although it has been bested as the thinnest tourbillon watch ever made, the Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon remains a mind-boggling watch. This Khaki Green edition, which is the latest variation of the watch we know since 2024, is literally wafer-thin. The case, which is also the structural mainplate for the movement, is just 2mm thin, and that includes the sapphire crystal on top. All components in the Calibre 970P are directly integrated into the caseback to achieve this incredible thinness. The khaki green details are offset by yellow gold accents, and the watch comes on an ultra-thin Kevlar and calfskin hybrid strap. The price is upon request.

For more information, please visit Piaget.com.

Quick Facts – 41.5mm x 2mm – cobalt alloy case – sapphire crystal, solid caseback with sapphire aperture – Khaki Green dial and movement coating with yellow gold accents – calibre 970P, hand-wound – 13 jewels & 6 ball bearings – 35h power reserve – 28,800vph frequency – one-minute tourbillon – Ultra-thin polish-mesh pattern calfskin strap with kevlar – G0A50530 – price upon request