Not all images were able to load for printing. Please close the print window and try again. The Undeniable Charm Of Square(-ish) Watches Interpreted by Five Brands
A square or rectangular case is a statistical rarity in the industry, but there are some true gems to be discovered!
It’s a given that the vast majority of mechanical watches rely on round or circular cases to portray the passing of time. After all, it makes the most sense, right? Hands rotate in a circular motion, which leads to circular dials and cases. But what if you’re looking for a different vibe in a more edgy style? Well, you’re in luck since watches like the Cartier Tank, TAG Heuer Monaco and several others have been trailblazers in square and rectangular watchmaking for decades. But there’s more on offer, especially since Patek Philippe recently ‘squarified’ its emblematic Nautilus. So with that in mind and kicking off with the Cubitus, here are five square(-ish) watches to satisfy your edgy needs!
Patek Philippe Cubitus 5821AR
Obviously, when it comes to square watches, we have to talk about the all-new Patek Philippe Cubitus collection, and we’ve gone for the two-tone 5821AR this time. The quadrangular (Patek’s name, not ours) sibling to the legendary Nautilus measures 44.5mm in width (3-9 o’clock incl. crown) and a slim 8.3mm in height. The bezel, crown, case hinges and centre links of the bracelet are executed in 18k rose gold with brushed or polished finishes. The sunburst blue dial with horizontal grooves and rose gold details is set on top of the automatic calibre 26-330 S C, which is driven by a 21k gold rotor. The Cubitus 5821AR retails for EUR 60.257.
For more information, please visit Patek.com.
Quick Facts – 44.5mm x 8.3mm – two-tone steel & gold case, brushed & polished – gold bezel & crown – sapphire crystal front & back – 30m water-resistant – sunburst blue dial with horizontal grooves – gold applied markers & hands with luminescent coating – calibre 26-330 S C, in-house – automatic winding – 212 parts – 28,800vph – 35h – 45h power reserve – integrated steel & gold bracelet with folding clasp and lockable size-adjustment system – EUR 60,275
Rado Anatom
The sleek Rado Anatom made quite an impression when it was introduced. But while it initially came on a rubber strap, Rado now presents it on a (plasma) high-tech ceramic bracelet perfectly complementing the case. Several versions are available, differentiated with coloured accents and with or without diamonds. The rectangular (as opposed to square-ish) case measures 32.5mm in width and 46.3mm in length, with a height of 11.3mm. The black or grey lacquered dial has a grooved pattern with applied markers, and underneath a sapphire crystal caseback is the Rado calibre R766. Prices range from EUR 4,950 to EUR 9,900.
For more information, please visit Rado.com.
Quick Facts – 32.5mm x 46.3mm x 11.3mm – (plasma) high-tech ceramic bezel, crown & bracelet – steel middle case & caseback – sapphire crystal front & back – 50m water-resistance – black or grey lacquered dial with grooved pattern – applied markers & hands with SLN – Rado calibre R766, automatic – 21 jewels – 72h power reserve – black or plasma high-tech ceramic bracelet with folding clasp – contrasting plated or diamond-set elements – from EUR 4,950 to EUR 9,900
Piaget Andy Warhol Clou de Paris
Uniting two icons and renaming them after the iconic King of Pop Art, Piaget stunned us with the Warhol Clou de Paris. Andy Warhol is, of course, well-known for wearing Piaget watches for years, and this model merges the brand’s and the artist’s legacy into a single watch. The white gold case has a square-ish cushion shape measuring 45mm across and is topped by a fantastic double-row Clou de Paris bezel. It’s paired with a blue meteorite dial for a very unique look. The dark blue leather strap tucks into the case (as does the crown), and it’s powered by the Piaget calibre 501P1 automatic. Prices start at EUR 56,000, and it can also be customised upon request.
For more information, please visit Piaget.com.
Quick Facts – 45mm diameter – white gold case – Clou de Paris bezel – sapphire crystal – solid caseback – recessed crown – 30m water-resistant – blue meteorite dial – applied indices & Dauphine style hands – silver Piaget logo – calibre 501P1, automatic – 20.8mm x 3.63mm – 23 jewels – 28,800vph – 40h power reserve – hours, minutes – dark blue alligator leather strap with white gold ardillon buckle – customisation options upon request – starting price of EUR 56,000
March la.b AM2 GMT
March LA.B, a refreshing brand with French roots, has advocated angular and extroverted watchmaking for quite some years. Their compelling AM2 GMT is a bold and edgy travelwatch with a distinct 1970s vibe and a dual time movement by La Joux-Perret. At 39mm in width and 12.5mm in height, the eight-sided case is relatively compact and hosts a green dial with a dark green ring for the hour markers and a two-tone 24-hour scale on the outer perimeter. Fitted to a stainless steel bracelet, this so-called Office GMT watch retails for a sensible USD 2,045. A black silicone strap is also available, dropping the price to USD 1,850.
For more information, please visit March-Lab.com.
Quick Facts – 39mm x 12.5mm – stainless steel case, brushed & polished – screw-down crown – sapphire crystal – green-tinted sapphire crystal caseback – 100m water-resistance – multi-level dial with multiple textures and tones of green – applied indices & hands with SNL – two-tone 24-hour ring – green GMT hand – La Joux-Perret G110, automatic – 24 jewels – 28,800vph – 68h power reserve – hours, minutes, seconds, date, GMT – steel bracelet with folding clasp – USD 2,045
TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph Racing green Calibre 11 Titanium
Last but certainly not least is one of the most iconic square watches in the business: the TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph. This Racing Green edition of the Monaco houses the modular calibre 11 automatic chronograph, famously putting the crown on the left. It comes in a lightweight grade 2 titanium case of 39mm by 39mm. The edges of the case are slightly curved, yet the faceted crystal is perfectly square. The silver sunray-brushed dial has contrasting green sub-dials and yellow details, with a yellow lining on the perforated green leather strap tying everything together. This limited edition of 1,000 pieces retails for CHF 9,100.
For more information, please visit TAGHeuer.com.
Quick Facts – 39mm x 39mm – square grade 2 titanium case, sandblasted – bevelled sapphire crystal – sapphire crystal caseback – 100m water-resistant – silver sunray-brushed dial – green subdials & yellow details – calibre 11, automatic modular chronograph – 59 jewels – 28,800vph – 40h power reserve – hours, minutes, small seconds, date, chronograph – perforated green leather strap with yellow lining & folding clasp – limited edition of 1,000 pieces – CHF 9,100
16 responses
The most important square watch was, is, and will always be the Cartier Santos.
Patek lost their way! Absolutely disaster!
Hideous. Especially the Cubitus. Looks like it was designed by Albert Speer.
One day horology may be able to invent a movement that fills a square case. Is any manufacturer up to the challenge and capable?
Sorry, square watches are not it. Don’t reinvent the wheel.
Gerald charles did a nice job too
To include the Cubitus and not mention the Cartier Santos is an actual crime.
i just remembered the JeanRichard TV Screen watch
The undeniable charm of square watches… excluding the latest Patek. Not sure which one is more unpleasant: the Cubitus design or Thierry’s arrogance.
The undeniable fact is the real TV case watch is the Nautilus the rest are atrocious wannabes though Mido comes close and is affordable for the rest of us.
Yes, inexplicable not to feature Cartier here, Cartier reigns in this square-ish genre.
The Cubitus is a Nautilus designed on an Etch-a-Sketch
No Cartier or Bell & Ross?
Steven R: “ One day horology may be able to invent a movement that fills a square case. Is any manufacturer up to the challenge and capable?”
Are you seriously asking or was this sarcasm?
If it wasn’t, then look at Patek’s own shaped movements, to start with.
I keep hanging on to my Jean Richard Paramount Chronograph with the 62 Jewel Girard Perregaux movement from my early watch collecting days. Of these watches in your article, I would really like to see the Rado Anatom in the metal.
R P, there are many manufacturers who have created square / rectangle movements over the decades. JLC Reverso of course, Tiffany Ref. 61522514, OMEGA Cal. 302, Richard Mille… and there are probably some on the typical Chinese/ Asian retail sites. If you were a true independent watchmaker launching a new square series, what would your preference be to showcase freedom of creativity, a nice value for $35,000, and to produce the very best for you customers keeping in mind JLC and others produce non-round movements?
Of course there’s a flip side to this: How often do we see square movements in a round case timepiece? This would be fun / different, perhaps horologically interesting, dare we say historic, and a counter-culture to mass produced round movement in a square case.