A Selection of Enamel Watches Using Rare Techniques such as Cloisonné, Champlevé or Flinqué

Enameling is one of the oldest decorative techniques, invented over 4,000 years ago and used, for example, in Mesopotamia and then Egypt. Surprisingly enough, the earliest enamel all used the cloisonné technique, known to be one of the most complex techniques currently in use. Under the word enamel, at least in watchmaking and decorative techniques, we imply the concept of vitreous enamel, made by firing powered glass to a high temperature, resulting in a smooth, durable vitreous coating – something that is often referred to as grand feu enamel, the most commonly used technique in watchmaking. But there’s more than just the classic, uniform, milky white enamel dial, as we’ll see by exploring some fascinating watches using the cloisonné, champlevé, flinqué or plique-à-jour technique. 

The concept of enamelling is ancient… It has been used by multiple antique cultures around the globe, like Mesopotamia, Egypt, and later China, Japan, the Islamic World and Europe. The technique consists of applying to a metal base (important) a mix of powdered glass and elements such as iron, chromium and soda, which is then heated to great temperatures (usually between 750 and 850 °C) so the powder melts, flows and hardens to result in a smooth, glossy vitreous surface known for its durablity – the surface is hard, resistant to chemicals and scratches (about 5 to 6 on the Mohs scale) and the colours obtained are extremely long-lasting. It is somewhat comparable to glass and is not paint. It can, however, crack or shatter when the underlying material is subjected to stress.

When we talk about enamel, in general at least, we have in mind the classic notion of Grand Feu enamel, a monolithic surface with a single-colour that has been used on watch dials for centuries – most antique pocket watches relied on enamel dials, explaining why so many of them are still in great conditions. Yet, enamelling is more than just this uniform dial you’ve come to expect, and many other techniques exist, most of them complex and time-consuming. Note: so-called “cold enamel” should not be confused with traditional enamel, as it doesn’t require to be fired in a kiln. It is a resin-type substance dispersed on a dial blank. Cold enamel generally cures and hardens at room temperature.

Classic Grand Feu – Breguet Classique Phase de Lune 7787

Grand Feu enamel is the base for all the subsequent techniques. It’s the mother recipe if you want. Under the name Grand Feu (which could be translated as Great Fire), we have to understand traditional enamelling, where powdered silica and other compounds are heated on a metal base (often gold for high-end watches) at very high temperatures in successive layers, melting and fusing the particles, requiring multiple reheats that ultimately creates a deep, glassy surface. It’s a very difficult process with a high failure rate, and each return to the kiln jeopardizes the previous layers. Layers are used for a desired thickness and also for multiple colors.

Grand Feu enamel is often seen in white but can actually be made in virtually any colour of the spectrum, including deep black – which is regarded as one of the most complex to achieve, as the slightest dust particle will be immediately visible. A great and recent example is the Breguet Classique Phase de Lune 7787 with Black Grand Feu Enamel Dial, a watch that combines classic design elements of the brand with a vibrant, rich enamelled dial in black. Its beauty lies in this combination of a deep, dark colour with a charmingly unbalanced display with moonphase and power reserve, together with signature Breguet numerals (also made in enamel) and hands.

For more details about this watch, please consult our hands-on article.

Plique-a-Jour – Vuitton Voyager Flying Tourbillon

Plique-à-jour, loosely translated as “letting in the daylight,” refers to transparent enamel devoid of backing. The design resembles a stained glass window, featuring a metal outline (frame) filled with various transparent, glass-like enamels of multiple colours. Like cloisonné, plique-à-jour consists of metal partitions or cells with a temporary backing, usually removed through an acid bath.

One of the rare modern watches to use this technique is the Louis Vuitton Voyager Flying Tourbillon Poinçon de Genève. However, contrary to the traditional technique where the backing is later removed, the artisans at La Fabrique des Arts opted for a capillary action fill without any support. This technique involves depositing material into open cells through quick and light movements, ensuring even spreading of the enamel without air pockets. The result is mesmerizing, with a white gold frame made of subtly intertwined V shapes and round openings at 12 and 6 o’clock. It undergoes five to six layers of enamel and an equal number of kiln firings. The process demands around 100 hours of meticulous work to produce just one dial.

For more details about this watch, please consult our hands-on article and our in-depth video.

Cloisonné – Andersen Geneve x BCHH Celestial Voyager

Cloisonné émail could be translated as compartmented enamel. As said, it is the oldest technique in use and relies on small compartments made thanks to metal strips or wire, most usually made of gold. These cloisons or compartments are then filled with vitreous enamel in various colours to create patterns or scenes with an incredible level of detail. It can be used to create virtually any decor, from classic to modern… or customised to the wishes of the future owner.

Cloisonné enamel remains a rare and expensive art that few master. Recently, we’ve seen this technique used by Benjamin Chee Haute Horlogerie in association with Andersen Genève, to create multiple series of worldtimer watches with artistic dials. The latest “Sunset over Cappadocia” models, with lavishly hand-decorated cloisonné enamel dials, are a perfect example of what is possible to achieve when combining skills and creativity.

For more details about this watch, please consult our hands-on article.

Champlevé – Krayon Anywhere Arborea

Like cloisonné, the champlevé method segments a dial. Unlike cloisonné, champlevé achieves this by first carving a metal dial. These spaces are then filled in with enamel, fired to melting point, then cooled and polished. The effect is colourful or patterned raised fields (that’s what champlevé means), with the uncarved portion framing various enamel designs. Just like cloisonné, champlevé can be used to create an infinity of patterns and decors, and the limit remains the creativity of the artist.

One of our recent encounters with the champlevé enamel method, and a stunning watch altogether, was the Krayon Anywhere Arborea, inspired by Henri Rousseau’s famous painting The Virgin Forest at Sunset, and executed in a mosaic-like manner – almost like an impressionist painting. The dial of this highly complex timepiece, offering sunrise and sunset times for a specific location, is done by carving 575 miniature, uniquely sized and shaped cavities, each meticulously hand-painted by a Swiss enamel artist. Identical results were obtained by the brand in a unique edition created for Jean Todt, inspired by Vincent van Gogh’s Starry Night.

For more details about this watch, please consult our hands-on article.

Flinqué – Czapek Quai Des Bergues

Another enamel technique is named flinqué (I know, today seems like a French lesson…), and it combines both enamelling and engraving techniques. The flinqué technique consists of first applying an engraved pattern to the base of the dial – it can be traditional guilloché, free engraving, or CNC-machined patterns – and then applying on top several layers of translucent enamel that, after being fired in a kiln, will reveal the texture underneath.

The flinqué technique has been used in various watches recently – even though the name of the technique rarely appears – such as the revised version of the Czapek Quai Des Bergues with updated movement, presented in 2022. The flinqué enamel dials feature the signature Czapek Ricochet guilloché pattern in two intense enamelled colours – sapphire blue and emerald green. The intricate, repetitive motif is based on a double focal point to create finely textured, captivating and distinctive wave interferences. The complex pattern is partially revealed through the successive layers of transluscent enamel. An identical technique has recently been used by Vuitton in an Escale model.

For more details about this watch, please consult our hands-on article.

Bonus, Porcelain – Seiko Presage Arita Porcelain SPB445

While cold enamel should not be confused with traditional enamel as it is a much less complex process, another technique comes close to enamel yet shows some important differences: porcelain. Now hardly used anymore in watchmaking, enamel dials are produced by molding the base material – the important difference, as it is a clay-based material – to the exact shape of the dial’s surface to ensure the consistency of size, depth and recesses. After drying, the dials are baked at 1300 °C, hand-glazed, and baked again. The second firing bonds the glaze to the dial and brings out the subtle tint. Finally, holes for the hands and complication windows are made, and a third baking smoothes the surfaces. The result is a dial with more depth and a more “milky” surface than enamel, as well as a different lustre, with a very soft in appearance.

One of the rare brands to still use porcelain is Seiko, with the Presage collection and the handsome Arita Porcelain models – which are using a traditional technique from the city of Arita, small town located on the Japanese island of Kyushu known for centuries for its overglaze “enamelled” decoration and products. In addition to a slightly different and possibly warmer result, Arita porcelain is also more accessible than traditional grand feu enamel. And this gives us watches like the Presage Craftsmanship Series Arita Porcelain Dial SPB445, with its handsome white dial with blue markers and printings. So not exactly enamel, but certainly an alternative to explore with smaller budgets.

For more details about this watch, please consult our hands-on article.