Embracing the Contemporary Appeal of Forged Carbon in Designs both Old and New

It’s often said the watchmaking industry is a conservative business, and for the most part that’s quite true. Traditional techniques are still at the heart of the vast majority of mechanical watches, but there are those who dare to push back boundaries and venture into the unknown. This can result in innovative materials, new designs and surprising collaborations. But, as some of the watches on this list perfectly showcase, cutting-edge materials can also be used to give a new spin on retro-inspired design. With that in mind, we take a closer look at some of the most refreshing carbon watches in recent times!

Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 forged carbon

Tissot’s mighty cool PRX needs little introduction. Prior to this Forged Carbon edition of the 40mm wide PRX, we only had stainless steel cases. Ok, there’s the gold PVD-coated PRX but that’s still steel underneath. The use of forged carbon drops the weight down from roughly 135 grams on a full bracelet, to approximately 74 grams, which is very noticeable on the wrist! What’s also worth mentioning is the fact Tissot opted for a forged carbon dial without the signature waffle pattern, and the upgraded Powermatic 80 Si movement, with a silicon hairspring. Fitted to an integrated black rubber strap, this one sets you back EUR 1,075.

For more information, please visit TissotWatches.com.

Quick Facts – 40mm x 11.2mm – forged carbon case – sapphire crystal, steel see-through back – 100m water-resistant – forged carbon dial, black date disc – markers & hands with Super-LumiNova – Powermatic 80 Si, automatic – 21,600vph – silicon hairspring – 80h power reserve – black textured rubber strap with pin buckle, quick release –  Ref. T137.907.97.201.00 – EUR 1,075

bulgari octo finissomo carbon-gold Perpetual calendar

If you want something a touch more complex, but without the bulk additional complications usually imply, the Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Carbon Gold Perpetual Calendar is probably your best option. At a wafer-thin 7.60mm, it’s a breeze on the wrist, especially in this stealthy forged carbon. To add a bit of pop to it, Bvlgari opted for rose gold for the crown, hands and perpetual calendar indications, as well as the bridges of the movement. Even the platinum micro-rotor plays along, as it’s plated in pink gold too. Worn on an integrated forged carbon bracelet with a hidden folding clasp, this has a retail price of EUR 100,000.

For more information, please visit Bulgari.com.

Quick Facts – 40 mm x 7.60mm – forged carbon case – sapphire crystal front & back – pink gold crown with black ceramic insert – 100m water-resistant – carbon dial with gold-coloured hands & indexes – Calibre BVL 305, ultra-thin micro-rotor automatic – 21,600vph – 60-hour power reserve – hours, minutes, perpetual calendar with day, month, retrograde date, leap year – carbon bracelet with DLC-steel folding buckle – EUR 100,000

longines ultra-chron carbon

The newest forged carbon to enter the playing field comes from a rather surprising brand; Longines. Never before has the Winged Hourglass manufacturer ventured outside of metal cases, whether it’s stainless or precious. This Ultra-Chron Carbon gives a new spin on Longines’ high-frequency retro dive watch, combining vintage looks with modern styling and materials. Sadly, the titanium bezel is now fixed, but overall it is a very cool result. Including the black technical fabric strap, we’re dealing with a watch of 80 grams in total! Retailing for EUR 5,450, Longines has left us wondering what else to expect from them this year!

For more information, please visit Longines.com.

Quick Facts – 43mm x 14mm – forged carbon case – titanium caseback – fixed titanium bezel with aluminium insert – titanium crown – sapphire crystal – 300m water-resistance – 80grams (incl. strap) – sandblasted anthracite dial – applied markers & hands with SLN – Calibre  L836.6, automatic – 5Hz frequency (36,000vph) – 52h power reserve – chronometer-certified by TimeLab Geneva – silicon balance spring – black technical fabric strap with pin buckle – EUR 5,450

kauri régulateur carbone

Carbon isn’t just reserved for mainstream manufacturers, but independent watchmakers every now and then know their way around the material as well. Take Kauri for instance, which uses it in the refreshing Régulateur Carbone. The 8-sided case is constructed out of steel and Carbonium, a type of forged carbon. As its name suggests, it has a regulator-style display for the hours (which jump, in the subdial at 6′), and the minutes, displayed with a hand in the centre. The base movement is made by Olivier Mory, but the module on top is made in-house. Only 20 will be made, all on subscription, with a price of CHF 34,000.

For more information, please visit Kauri-Watches.com.

Quick Facts – 41.5mm x 11mm – stainless steel & Carbonium case – sapphire crystal front & back – 30m water-resistance – partially openworked multi-level dial – jumping hour with retrograde central minutes – gold-coloured hands – hand-wound movement with base by Olivier Mory – in-house regulator module – 21,600vph – carbon grey alligator leather strap with pin buckle – 100h power reserve – subscription watch, limited to 20 pieces – CHF 34,000

Hublot Big Bang tourbillon sr_a by Samuel Ross

Last on the list, but by no means least, is the Big Bang Tourbillon SR_A, the latest in Hublot’s collaboration with artist Samuel Ross. The striking-looking watch is constructed out of various elements, including titanium and forged carbon. To lighten it even more, it features a honeycomb pattern all around, from strap to case sections and even the intermediate plate underneath the dial. The entire movement is constructed on top of the baseplate, with a micro-rotor at noon and a flying tourbillon escapement at 6′. A few touches of blue are added, to match the integrated rubber strap. Limited to 50 pieces, this one costs a hefty EUR 149,000.

For more information, please visit Hublot.com.

Quick Facts – 44mm x 13.75mm – titanium & forged carbon case – honeycomb structures throughout – sapphire crstal front & back – 30m water-resistant – openworked dial – applied markers & hands with SLN – Calibre HUB6035, in-house micro-rotor automatic – 21,600vph – 72h power reserve – honeycomb baseplate – flying tourbillon escapement – integrated blue rubber strap with honeycomb sections – titanium folding clasp – limited edition of 50 pieces – EUR 149,000