The new Black DLC Titanium Edition of the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic

The Octo Finissimo collection by Bulgari doesn’t need an introduction anymore. One of the few emblematic lineups to have surfaced over the last decade, the OF has become the king of ultra-thin watchmaking, beating one record of thinness after another. But Bulgari’s slim-fit watch is more than just its slender profile and complex movements. It is also a true design statement, a collection that has been modelled for contemporary tastes. The latest version of the Octo Finissimo Automatic, the most accessible model in the collection (next to highly complex Tourbillons, Chronographs, or paper-thin chronometers), goes on-trend as black makes a strong return in men’s fashion. All black, all matte, all striking. 

One of the defining elements of all inaugural editions of the watches launched by Bulgari in the Octo Finissimo collection was the monochromatic, full sandblasted titanium look, from case to dial and bracelet. This matte, all-grey style not only added modernity and texture but also incredible lightness (and thus comfort) to match the paper-thin profile of these watches. Just like a well-tailored, Italian slim-fit suit for summer… With time, the classic matte titanium launch edition was joined by a multitude of other styles and materials, from steel to gold, and contrasting colours for the dial. But this year, as black is making a surprising comeback in menswear, Bulgari brings a black DLC-coated titanium version of the Octo Finissimo Automatic, worn on a strap.

A quick reminder about the basics… There are two main editions of the Octo Finissimo Automatic: one, the titanium models with a 5.00mm profile, matte finish for the case and 30m water-resistance; two, the steel or gold S editions with a slightly thicker case of 6.40mm, satin-finished and polished surfaces and a 100m water-resistance. As you can expect from the material used in this new edition, we’re looking at a watch that sits in the first category. The case, with over 100 facets, retains the bold and sharp design of the collection, combining angles, several octagons and a circular bezel. The titanium case is here made of matte, sandblasted titanium and coated in black DLC, which results in a watch that is much more appealing than the glossy black ceramic edition. Indeed, in my eyes, a matte finish is somehow essential to the DNA of the OF Automatic. Anyway, personal tastes…

The case retains the incredible thinness of the launch model, with a certain presence when seen from above – 40mm in diameter, but with quite some surface area – and an almost impossible thinness when seen from the side, as the case is just 5mm. The matte black finish of the case does, however, make it feel slightly smaller than expected, though (black has a well-known slimming effect…) The rest of the case, with its 30m water-resistance, retains classic specifications: crown with a black ceramic cabochon, sapphire crystal on both sides.

To provide the consistency the collection is known for, the Octo Finissimo Automatic Black DLC Titanium comes equipped with a matte black dial. In order to retain a certain legibility (relatively speaking…), all elements of the dial have a glossy black finish – hands, markers, numerals and tracks. In daylight, the contrast is fairly pleasant. At night, I wouldn’t count too much on this watch. But it certainly looks good.

Inside the case, the main reason for the thinness of this watch is the Calibre BVL 138, a movement that uses several tricks to reduce its overall presence. First, it is a large calibre with most of the components positioned on a flat plan, allowing for them to be spread rather than stacked. Then, winding is done thanks to a micro-rotor, again avoiding the additional thickness of a central rotor. The latter is made of platinum for more inertia. This movement also manages to boast a comfortable 60-hour power reserve.

Contrary to many editions of the Octo Finissimo Automatic, this new black DLC version is worn on a strap and not a bracelet. Even though it looks as if it’s made of fabric, it’s actually textured rubber, closed by a black DLC-coated titanium pin buckle. Released as part of the permanent collection and now available, this new reference 104268 is priced at EUR 17,000 (incl. taxes), CHF 14,500 (incl. taxes) or USD 15,500 (excl. taxes). For more details, please consult www.bulgari.com.