Three New Editions of the Sporty Bulgari Aluminium

The launch of the Bulgari Aluminio in 1998 flew in the face of conventional watchmaking with its unusual combination of black rubber and lightweight aluminium. With its graphic solid black and off-white livery, the Aluminio soared in popularity as an attractive, entry-level sports watch with a slick Italian soul. Marking its much-anticipated comeback in 2020, Bulgari released the Aluminium with automatic movements, an increased water-resistance of 100 metres and the signature black and off-white colour scheme that has made this watch so recognisable and popular. Today, Bulgari plays with the colour palette of the Aluminium with three equally eye-catching, unisex versions of its GMT, time-and-date and chronograph models.

While the combination of rubber and aluminium might not strike us as being particularly vanguard today, back in 1998, this mix was unconventional. Admittedly, Hublot’s Italian founder Carlo Crocco shocked Baselworld in 1980 with his gold watch and black rubber strap, but Bulgari went one step further and produced a case made from aluminium, a lightweight metal usually relegated to bezels.

In addition to its unorthodox materials, the Aluminio featured the brand name Bulgari embossed into the rubber bezel not once but twice, making the brand name an integral part of the design. Originally appearing on the 1977 Bvlgari Bvlgari watch, the brand’s first industrially produced gent’s watch, the double mention of the brand name on the gold bezel was a nod to the tradition of Roman Emperors’ names stamped on coins. As a product that captured a very Italian design bravado, an image of the Bulgari Aluminio was strapped around the upper deck of an Alitalia Boeing 747 as part of a marketing campaign.

All three newcomers share 40mm case diameters, 100m water-resistance, DLC-coated crowns and titanium casebacks, and the iconic rubber bezel with double branding. The exceptional lightweight aluminium case is crafted from an aluminium alloy (6082) used in aerospace, which is 40% lighter than titanium and 75% lighter than steel. The watches also share the hallmark tapered rubber strap with articulated aluminium links in the centre and the brand name embossed on the first two links closest to the lugs.

Aluminium Black GMT

Fittingly for a brand that advertised this watch on a Boeing 747, a GMT model joined the Aluminium collection in 2021. An eminently practical complication for travellers, the first edition appeared in blue and red livery, followed a year later by the GMT Amerigo Vespucci in black and yellow. The new Black GMT returns to the original black and off-white colour scheme of the Aluminio with a dash of red.

The 40mm case has a slim height of 9.70mm and a weight of just 68.6g. Its legibility is exceptional thanks to the bold black-and-red 24-hour GMT scale on the dial, indicated by a central arrow-shaped hand with a red luminous tip. Colour-coded for intuitive readings, the red area of the GMT scale indicates day hours, while the black indicates night.

The black applied indices, Arabic numerals at 12 and 6, and the tips of the hour and minute hands are also treated with Super-LumiNova. Matching the red area of the GMT bezel, the central seconds hand has a red syringe-style tip and a circular red counterweight. User-friendliness also enters the equation, and setting the local time and second time zone (home time) is done using the crown. The date window is at 3 o’clock.

Quick facts: 40mm x 9.70mm – aluminium case with black rubber bezel, black DLC-coated titanium caseback and crown – 100m water-resistance – off-white dial with black-and-red 24h GMT scale indicated by red arrow-tipped luminous hand – indices and hands treated with Super-LumiNova – date at 3 o’clock – B192 calibre (Sellita SW 330 base) automatic, 50h power reserve – black rubber strap with aluminium links and pin buckle – ref. 103963 – EUR 4,100

Aluminium Chronograph Smeraldo

Prepped for the upcoming summer months, Bulgari’s 800-piece limited-edition Aluminium Chronograph Smeraldo features an enticing colour palette inspired by the colours of the Mediterranean. Similar in spirit to last year’s Capri editions, the rubber bezel and strap abandon the collection’s signature black colour code and adopt a vibrant green colour. The dial is graduated from a subtle light green tone at the top to an intense turquoise green at the bottom.

The three sub-dials – 12-hour totaliser at 6 o’clock, 30-min totaliser at 9 o’clock and running seconds at 3 o’clock – are green with white markings and hands. To ensure legibility, the white blocks above the dark green indices and the tips of the dark green hour and minute hands are treated with Super-LumiNova, while the silver central chronograph hand has a white tip. As always, the inclusion of the date window at 4:30 is debatable. The black DLC-coated titanium caseback is personalised with a wind rose motif. As an entry-level proposal, the Aluminium Chronograph is equipped with the Bulgari calibre B130, an automatic movement based on an ETA 2894 with a 42-hour power reserve.

Quick facts: 40mm – aluminium case with dark green rubber bezel, black DLC-coated titanium caseback, pushers and crown – 100m water-resistance – graduated green dial with dark green sub-dials, indices and hour and minute hands, SLN on hour and minute hands and indices, date window at 4:30 – B130 automatic calibre (base ETA 2894) 42h power reserve – dark green rubber strap with aluminium links and pin buckle – ref. 104076 – limited edition 800 pieces – EUR 5,500

Aluminium White Automatic

The classic time-and-date Aluminium strikes a pose with its all-white look. This monochromatic version is a refreshing, unisex take on the Solotempo Aluminium. It is a limited edition of 1,000 pieces and features all the key traits of the Aluminium collection.

The white rubber bezel and aluminium case find an echo on the matte white dial with its silver rhodium-plated markers, numerals at 12 and 6, and hour and minute hands. To enhance legibility, the small rectangular indices above the hour markers and the tips of the hour and minute hands are treated with Super-LumiNova. The only touch of colour is provided by the red-tipped central seconds hand with its circular red counterweight. The crown and caseback are titanium but not treated with a black DLC coating. The date window is at 3 o’clock. Powered by the calibre B77, an automatic with an ETA 2892 base, the movement delivers a power reserve of 42 hours.

Quick facts: 40mm – aluminium case with white rubber bezel, titanium caseback and crown – 100m water-resistance – white matte dial with rhodium-plated indices, hour markers and hands, Super-LumiNova on indices and hour and minute hands, date window at 3 o’clock – white rubber strap with aluminium links and pin buckle – ref. 103964 – limited edition 1,000 pieces – EUR 3,450

For more information, please visit bulgari.com.