What makes a Breguet? Several elements that the brand calls the ‘Unmistakable Signs’ refers to the typical Breguet style. The guilloché (engine turned) dial is of course the first element but not only. The soldered lugs, the Breguet numerals, the secret signature, the Breguet hands and the fluted cases are all together creating a unique universe, so easily recognizable. The Breguet Classique Chronograph 5287 brings all these elements in a single watch, but also adds something more modern, especially in this black dial configuration.
Most of the Breguet (except the Type XX, a range totally apart in the Breguet Collection) are coming with silver dials. This one comes with a guillaché dial, that is classically made of a gold plate, but here coated in black. And that creates a crucial difference, a completely new atmosphere, mixing modernity and traditions. The dial presents 4 patterns: a classical ‘clou de Paris’ in the middle, concentric circles for the counter at 3, circular barleycorn for the counter at 9 and a brushed metallic finish for the sub-counter’s rings and hour-track. Al together it creates a very contrasting and easy-to-read face for a classical chronograph, even more when you consider the manifold finishes.
The dial has a classical bi-compax layout, with a 30-minute counter at 3, a central chronograph and second small second at 9. However, the latter is quite eccentric as it tapered to the center of the dial and that it only shows the 0-30 section. It may not be the most legible small second we’ve ever seen, but on the other hand, this unusual shape is participating a lot to the charm of the Breguet Classique Chronograph 5287. The last indication is a tachometer ring around the hour-track.
The other typically-Breguet elements are here, with the secret signature that can be found between 12 and 1, the specific hands with the hollowed eccentric moon. The Breguet numerals are not part of the Breguet Classique Chronograph 5287, as they are usually applied on enamel dials. Instead, you’ll find here Roman Numerals. Concerning the case, it comes with the straight soldered lugs with a screwed bar. These are directly welded on the caseband. Talking about the case, the sides are naturally coming with the fluted finish (fine grooves enhanced with double beading) that makes a Breguet so unique. The case itself measures 42.5mm, quite a large diameter for a dress watch and a huge increase compared to its predecessor, the Breguet Classique Chronograph 5247 (with a 39mm diameter). Considering the shape of the lugs and the size of the case, this Breguet Classique Chronograph 5287 will require a solid wrist to feel comfortable.
Inside the Breguet Classique Chronograph 5287 ticks the Calibre 533.3 that was also used in the Breguet Chronograph 5247. It is a column-wheel chronograph movement based on the Lemania CH 27 that finds its roots in the 1940s (don’t forget that Lemania is now owned by the Swatch Group, also owner of Breguet). It is however seriously reworked by Breguet that adds its own finish – Geneva stripes, anglagle, polished screw heads and slots, complete finishing of the chronograph’s gears and levers. it is clean and dry pleasant to admire it through the sapphire caseback. It boasts 48 hours of power reserve, has 24 jewels, ticks at 3Hz, is adjusted in 6 positions and comes with (obviously) a Breguet balance spring. This movement may not be the more modern of the industry but it remains one of the most beautiful ever made.
The Breguet Classique Chronograph 5287 may be one of the most traditional chronograph around but it adds some very nice details, such as the black colored dial or the lovely small second sub-counter. It’s enough to modernize a classic and to make it so desirable. It is available in 4 editions:
- Pink gold and black dial (ref. 5287BR/92/9ZV – priced at 42.300 Eur)
- Pink gold and silver dial (ref. 5287BR/12/9ZV – priced at 42.300 Eur)
- White gold and black dial (ref. 5287BB/92/9ZV – priced at 42.700 Eur)
- White gold and silver dial (ref. 5287BB/12/9ZV – priced at 42.700 Eur)