The Handsome Blancpain Villeret Perpetual Calendar Goes Green

Today, 29 February 2024, is a pretty special day for calendar watches… and specifically perpetual calendar timepieces. To mark the leap year, Blancpain is releasing a new version of its Villeret Quantième Perpétuel – or Villeret Perpetual Calendar – an elegant and functional available already in steel, red gold or a limited edition in platinum. An updated and modernised iteration of the previous reference 6057, the 6656 has been a prominent fixture in Blancpain’s catalogue since 2018, garnering popularity for its refined and classy aesthetics. Following a style already seen in a Villeret Extraplate model, the collection now welcomes the Villeret Perpetual Calendar 6656 in red gold, featuring a captivating green dial for a touch of renewed sophistication.

The new version of the Villeret Perpetual Calendar maintains the series’ signature charm, retaining the beloved features of its predecessors. The 40.3mm fully polished case, a mere 10.8mm thick, strikes an ideal balance, offering a well-proportioned and surprisingly lightweight format despite its solid 18k red gold composition. Featuring sapphire crystals on both front and back, the timepiece boasts a classically stepped bezel that enhances the visual impact of the dial.

Staying true to the series’ distinct design, the case departs from the commonplace correctors on the flanks, still so typical of many perpetual calendars. Instead, it sports an innovation patented in 2004; four under-lug corrector levers, ensuring intuitive and user-friendly adjustments with just a fingertip.

While the aforementioned features may not be groundbreaking news, it is the dial’s new colour that steals the spotlight. The dark green, sunray-brushed dial, adorned with applied red-gold Roman hour numerals, captivates with its dynamic play of hues, shifting gracefully with viewing angle and light changes. This green-on-gold scheme was previously seen in a Villeret Extraplate as well as the 2024 edition of the Villeret Traditional Chinese Calendar, yet with an enamel dial. The red-gold leaf-shaped and hollow hour and minutes hands enhance the luxurious feel; the central seconds hand, also crafted from gold, is adorned with a JB counterweight to honour the original Blancpain’s founder, Jehan-Jacques Blancpain.

The dial, adhering to a traditional layout, incorporates recessed and snailed subdials for the calendar, featuring the date at 3 o’clock, weekday at 9, and month at 12 – the latter accompanied by an integrated leap year indicator. Above the 6 o’clock index, the unmistakable Blancpain moon phase graces the dial, bearing the iconic moon image synonymous with the brand across various collections, symbolising its special significance cultivated over the years.

The brand sees it as a symbol of the mechanical renaissance that followed the quartz crisis, for at the time, Blancpain, headed by Jean-Claude Biver took a stand and sought to fight disruptive technology by demonstrating the timeless nature of the centuries-old watchmaking know-how in all its beauty. One of the watches to showcase the craftsmanship was the full calendar with a moon phase launched in 1983. Notably, the quartz movements then could not replicate its classical design! The timepiece paved the way for future complications, which helped solidify Blancpain’s mechanical watchmaking prowess and reputation. It also introduced the moon face design that stayed – and is faithfully reproduced with this new perpetual Calendar reference.

While the notable Blancpain 1983 full calendar relied on a classic Frédéric Piguet movement, an out-of-production calibre from the 1940s (ingeniously revisited by watchmaker Edmond Capt, renowned for his work on the Valjoux 7750), the latest addition to the Blancpain Villeret Perpetual Calendar collection is fitted with a very different powerhouse. It relies on the same movement found across the series – the in-house automatic calibre 5954 with a 72-hour power reserve. This movement is built using 351 components, including 32 jewels, operates at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations/hour and has a silicon balance spring with anti-magnetic properties.

This perpetual calendar movement, mechanically programmed to indicate the date, weekday, month and leap year without needing adjustment until 2100, also incorporates a robust security system, another feature demonstrating a user-friendly approach. Specifically designed for all Blancpain calendars, it guards against mishandling, such as adjusting the mechanism amid the date switch, ensuring a seamless and reliable performance. As seen through the display case back, the movement is meticulously adorned with perlage and Geneva stripes and features a solid gold oscillating weight embellished with an intricate honeycomb pattern.

The new Blancpain Villeret Perpetual Calendar Green comes with a brown alligator leather strap fitted to the slim, short and curved lugs (22mm width), secured by a red gold folding clasp. The watch enters a permanent collection and the price, while to be confirmed, should be around EUR 47,000. For more, visit blancpain.com.