Bell & Ross Goes Avant-Garde with the Architectural BR-X3 Micro-Rotor (Incl. Video)

We’ve come to know and love Bell & Ross for its unbridled devotion to the world of aviation and its many flight instrument-inspired watches. The recently launched BR-X3 Micro-Rotor, however, which is a less complex spin-off from last year’s BR-X3 Micro-Rotor Tourbillon, goes in an entirely different direction. It’s not tied to flight instruments, nor does it have a laughing, edgy skull on the dial. Yet it does reveal all its avant-garde intricacies thanks to a rather unconventional case and movement construction. But what to make of it then? Is it a proper Bell & Ross?

Founded in 1992 by childhood friends and college students Burno Belamich and Carlos Rosillo, Bell & Ross launched its first watch in 1994. After a decade of producing space and military-themed tool watches, the brand turned the page and introduced the BR 01, which became iconic for its circle-in-a-square design philosophy. With inspiration coming from flight instruments, the BR 01 paved the way for many, many aviation-inspired watches. We’ve seen everything from stainless steel to ceramic and even precious metal elements, and from simple time-only to chronographs and even tourbillon movements. The brand has also not been shy to create more provocative watches, such as the Skull series watches and the later Cyber editions.

To start with the basics, this BR-X3 Micro-Rotor comes in at 40mm in width and length, and just 9mm in height. That’s a fair bit smaller and slimmer than the regular BR series, and on the wrist, that means it’s actually fairly wearable (while not forgetting that a square watch has more presence than a round one). The short downward-angled lugs help to keep the overall length in check, which certainly helps with ergonomics. The mid-case is crafted from stainless steel, which is sandwiched between two slabs of sapphire crystal. These are fixed in place with a functional screw on all four corners, a key design element in pretty much all Bell & Ross watches. On the right, there’s a pull-out crown with the brand’s ampersand-shaped logo, and the water resistance is rated at 50 meters.

Where things get interesting is on the dial. Or better said, the movement, as there literally is no dial whatsoever. The movement is fully exposed and shows you only the hours and minutes through a pair of central hands. The rhodium-plated, micro-blasted and polished hands have a Super-LumiNova insert for a touch of night-time legibility, and that’s pretty much it. No markers, no date function, no additional indications, just time in its purest form.

However, there is a lot more to be seen despite its time-only nature. The flat sapphire crystal and lack of any type of dial mean you get an unimpeded view of the movement in its entirety. The Calibre BR-Cal.390 is a proprietary micro-rotor automatic, developed by Concepto, a long-time partner of Bell & Ross. As the name of the watch suggests, it’s wound by a micro-rotor mechanism, which can be seen from both sides. The movement runs at a rate of 28,800vph and has a power reserve of 48 hours in the single openworked barrel at noon. The most striking feature is the almost grid-like construction of it all. Using vertical and horizontal beams, for lack of a better word, everything is aligned in a geographical pattern. Even the gear train is neatly placed along the lines of the movement. Finished in monochromatic steel and grey tones, the only touch of colour comes from the visible jewels.

Now that I’ve experienced this watch for a few days, I can honestly say I find it rather refreshing. Yes, you can argue about its legibility and accuracy in setting it, as it lacks any type of marker for the minutes, let alone any form of seconds indication. But during my time with it that never felt like an issue. If you set it at specific full hours, made easy with the grid-like movement construction, you’re pretty much good to go.

What I also find intriguing is the fact that Bell & Ross can still branch out from its aviation-inspired DNA and create something equally provocative, yet far more avant-garde and design-driven. So, to answer my initial question, is it a proper Bell & Ross? I would say yes, although it lacks the aviation connection. It looks great, offers something different from the masses, and intrigues greatly with its modern, architectural design. The Bell & Ross BR-X3 Micro-Rotor is fitted to a grey calfskin leather strap with alligator embossing and a steel folding clasp, is limited to 99 pieces, and retails for EUR 22,000.

For more information, please visit bellross.com.