Audemars Piguet Releases its First 38mm Perpetual Calendar Royal Oak and Code 11.59

To say that the perpetual calendar complication reverts great importance to Audemars Piguet, specifically in the context of the Royal Oak, would be an understatement. Earlier this year, in the frame of its 150th anniversary, the Le Brassus-based brand released two important new models, built around an unprecedented movement (calibre 7138): the new generation of 41mm Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar and the updated Code 11.59 Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar 41mm. Now, it’s time for the complication to be featured for the first time in a smaller version of the Royal, as the brand releases the first-ever 38mm ROQP. And there’s also a new, compact Code 11.59 to complete the package.

Next-Gen Perpetual Calendar Calibre

As explained in this article, and following the launch of the Royal Oak Jumbo 16202ST with its new, extra-thin, in-house calibre 7121, Audemars Piguet also updated its automatic perpetual calendar movement using the same base. For many years, most QPs by the brand, including the RO, were based on the calibre 2120, an ultra-thin movement once created and manufactured by Jaeger-LeCoultre. The new generation of QPs at AP now relies on the modern 7121 base, becoming the calibre 7138, with a 4Hz frequency, an extended power reserve of 55h, equipped with a quick date, boasting several innovations first found in the Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin (a.k.a RD#2) and mostly, an all-in-one crown and no more correctors inserted into the case side.

First introduced in the context of 41mm models, namely the new Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar 26674 and the new Code 11.59 Perpetual Calendar 26494, this movement (and another one with several modifications) finds it way, for the first time, in smaller cases measuring 38mm – somehow advertised for a feminine audience, while I can clearly imagine that many men would be interested in these more compact models (personally, I would…)

The Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar 38mm ref. 26684

For many years, the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar was the more complex cousin of the Jumbo, measuring an identical 39mm diameter and retaining a slim profile of about 7.5mm to 8.3mm. It’s only in 2015 that the model drastically changed to become the reference 26574, with a week indicator on the inner flange and a 41mm diameter. The launch earlier this year of the new 26674 generation retained most of the attributes, including the larger case size. AP, rightfully, thought there was room for something more compact.

And here are two new 38mm versions of the Royal Oak QP, the reference 26684, available either in steel with a light blue dial or in pink gold with a beige-gold dial. Design-wise, everything remains as classic as it should be, with all elements you expect from a Royal Oak. However, proportions have changed to now a 38mm diameter and a 9.4mm thickness (compared to 41mm x 9.5mm). Another important difference concerns the display, which gets rid of the week indicator on the periphery to only focus on classic calendar indications, including a moon at 6 o’clock.

This evolution of the display also implies a slightly reworked movement that becomes Calibre 7136. It retains, however, the same technical base with a 4Hz frequency, a 55h power reserve and all the corrections of the calendar done by the crown, including a security system to avoid the movement from being blocked. The dials are both using Grande Tapisserie patterns, with gold hands and applied markers. The steel version (26684ST.OO.1356ST.01) retails for EUR 104,300, while the price of the gold edition (26684OR.OO.1356OR.01) is upon request.

Quick facts: 38mm x 9.4mm – steel or 18k pink gold case, sapphire crystals, 50m water-resistant – Grande Tapisserie dials in light blue or beige – calibre 7136, in-house, automatic, 29.6mm x 4.1mm, 41 jewels, 4Hz frequency, 55h power reserve – integrated RO bracelet in steel or pink gold

The Code 11.59 Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar 38mm ref. 26441

In the same vein as the 41mm edition released earlier this year, Audemars Piguet also launches a 38mm version of the Code 11.59 Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar. Here, most of the changes concern the proportions, materials and colours, as this 38mm model retains the same calibre 7138, including its indication of the week on the inner flange.

The case, which is here made of 18k pink gold, measures now 38mm in diameter and 9.9mm in thickness (41mm x 10.3mm otherwise) and is fitted with a green, large-scale alligator strap. The same colour is found on the dial, which features the signature embossed pattern that was introduced in 2023 when the collection started using steel cases. All elements of the dial, flange and sub-dials included, are colour-matched and paired with gold hands and applied markers. Inside the case is the crown-operated calibre 7138, with 4Hz frequency and 55h power reserve. This edition (26441OR.OO.D405CR.01) retails for EUR 104,300.

Quick facts: 38mm x 9.9mm – 18k pink gold case, sapphire crystals, 30m water-resistant – green embossed dial – calibre 7138, in-house, automatic, 29.6mm x 4.1mm, 41 jewels, 4Hz frequency, 55h power reserve – green alligator strap

Note that all three watches are also available in 150-piece limited editions for the brand’s 150th anniversary, with subtle changes to the dial, including a vintage “Audemars Piguet” signature added to the moonphase, and a “150” engraving on the back. For more details, please visit audemarspiguet.com.