The New Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic in Sandblasted Yellow Gold

As with almost all the record-breaking watches from the Octo Finissimo collection – and what a collection that is – the inaugural edition of the simpler version, the automatic, was first released in sandblasted titanium. A signature look, to make things clear. Ever since, the watch has been made in multiple variants, including steel models with reinforced water-resistance, original colours, ceramic or sketch models. One that’s always been a favourite of mine is the sandblasted rose gold edition, now discontinued. The same concept is back this year in yellow gold with several upgrades. But the surprisingly muted look is still part of the equation.

Soon after the Octo Finissimo Automatic Titanium was first released, Bulgari released two additional versions in sandblasted steel coated in white gold and palladium (for a whiter look) and sandblasted rose gold. I had the chance to wear the latter for a couple of days during a shooting in Rome, in summertime, and I vividly remember falling in love with the watch. While our founder, Frank, has a personal preference for the monochromatic tone (obviously) and lightness of the titanium version, I quickly settled on the gold model for several reasons. First, I am a man of discreet tastes. I prefer white metals for their muted look. Gold, whether yellow or pink, is never my initial choice. Yet, due to the non-reflective, matte sandblasted surface of the case of this Octo Finissimo, I simply had a crush. A warm case and bracelet without the bling… Yes, please. Second, and while I totally understand the appeal of titanium for comfort, this watch is so light and so thin that my brain wants me to think it’ll break. The weight of gold counteracted this. In short, the sandblasted rose gold OF would have been my definitive choice… Not that I can afford it, and in any case, it’s now out of the collection.

Now, to my surprise, the concept of the mattified gold Octo Finissimo was discreetly reintroduced during Watches and Wonders 2025 – not officially shown, but there nevertheless. There are several notable differences, however, that need reporting. First, the obvious. The watch is now made of 18k yellow gold. Still sandblasted, still as muted as it can be for a gold watch, still fully monochromatic (case, dial, bracelet… all are yellow gold) and respectful of the original look of the collection, only brighter and heavier than the titanium models. The result is a watch with marginally more punch than the previous rose gold model, but still the same pleasant tactile effect of the matte surface.

Another notable evolution concerns the construction of the case. In line with almost all recent versions of the Octo Finissimo Automatic, the sandblasted yellow gold model relies on the revised case with a screw-down crown and 100m water-resistance, compared to only 30m in the past. This ensures that the watch fits within the luxury sports category, with a mix of thinness and daily resistance. This, however, comes at the expense of thickness, which now sits at 6.40mm instead of the original 5.15mm. Nothing dramatic, honestly, as this watch remains one of the thinnest of its kind, being thinner than a 16202ST or a 5811G – both above 8mm. The 40mm diameter and overall design are now well established.

In typical Bulgari OF vibe, the dial is made in the same material and finish as the case. Here, we’re talking sandblasted yellow gold, with blackened hands and black markers for great visual impact and contrast (during the day, at least). The result is a watch that feels consistent, that has a true “one-piece” effect. Additionally, yellow gold, whether sandblasted or not, will never possess the discretion of a white metal; there is something subtle, a restrained, luxurious effect that feels more understated, sartorial, and modern. This look continues on the bracelet, also made of 18k yellow gold.

Inside the case is the same movement as all other editions, the large and thin calibre BVL 138. This manufacture movement remains amongst the thinnest automatic calibres available on the market, measuring only 2.23mm in height. This was made possible thanks to a clever construction that combines a platinum micro-rotor with parts positioned on a horizontal plane, rather than being stacked. Despite its thinness, this 3Hz movement stores a generous 60h power reserve.

Now available from the brand as part of the permanent collection, the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic in Sandblasted Yellow Gold retails for EUR 51,500 or CHF 45,200. For more details, please visit www.bulgari.com.