Time in Orbit with the Vanguart Orb Flying Tourbillon

Vanguart is a young independent watchmaking brand founded by four men: Thierry Fisher, Jeremy Frelechox, Axel Leuenberger and Mehmet Korutürk. Both Leuenberger and Frelechox previously honed their skills at Audemars Piguet. Fisher is in charge of design. Korutürk has a background in finance and was working for a private equity company. Presented in 2021, their first creation, the Black Hole Tourbillon, is an impressive central flying tourbillon with a unique in-line digital display of the hours and minutes on three concentric rings. Following this first and futuristic watch, the idea was to create a more consensus-driven, less polarising, and slightly more accessible design. Slightly being the keyword, because the Orb is certainly not an everyday watch, nor is it suited to every budget.

While more approachable, the Vanguart Orb remains true to the brand’s singular vision of watchmaking first expressed through the Black Hole Tourbillon. This openworked flying tourbillon is technically sophisticated, undeniably modern, and filled with distinctive details and features, just slightly less extreme than its predecessor.

A futuristic organic design

From a design standpoint, the Orb stands out with its rounded, flowing lines and soft, pebble-like curves, giving it a modern, organic aesthetic. On the wrist, it feels exceptionally ergonomic and wears much smaller than its 41mm diameter suggests, thanks to its lug-less design and integrated rubber strap. The lightweight titanium construction further enhances comfort. Yet, much of the focus naturally falls on the movement.

The Orb is a flying tourbillon with an openworked construction, packed with inventive features that are not immediately apparent. The look of this skeletonised calibre is modern and highly architectural, with a striking sense of depth and elaborate finishes throughout. It is built symmetrically with the tourbillon, creating a counterpoint to the barrel. 

This futuristic, three-dimensional movement is encircled by a rounded orbital mass whose oscillations can only be spotted thanks to the diamond set on its surface and revolving around its track. Peripheral winding is already a rare feature in itself, yet the Orb Tourbillon still holds plenty of surprises. If you ever get tired of seeing this diamond rotate around your watch as you move your wrist, you can switch to manual-winding mode. The rotor will lock into the 12 o’clock position as you move your wrist. The watch mode can be switched by pressing the crown, and its status can be checked thanks to the three round openings on top of the barrel: “manual winding” at 10 o’clock, “automatic winding” at 2 o’clock and “time setting” at 6 o’clock.

In-House movement

Designed and manufactured in-house, this 31.2mm calibre ticks at 3Hz, and its barrel delivers a 60-hour power reserve. The bridges and the mainplate are made from grade 5 titanium with microblasted finish, handmade polished bevels and satin finishing. The titanium orbital rotor counterweight is made of gold. The other side of the movement is visible via the exhibition case back, exhibiting, once again, an intricate and highly symmetrical architecture.

The hours and minutes are indicated by two partially skeletonised hands fitted with luminescent material. Luminescent blocks are embedded into the sloping flange at the periphery of the watch. Lastly, the brand logo is transferred to the sapphire crystal.

The Vanguart Orb comes on an integrated rubber strap with a titanium buckle. It is fitted with an elaborate and super practical interchangeability system, which is a rarity for a niche independent watchmaking brand. The two pieces of the strap can be released by pushing a pair of rounded pushers on either side of the case. To put the strap back in place, simply push it back into position until you hear the click that locks it.

Thoughts and price

I can only recommend experiencing the sleek Vanguart Tourbillon firsthand. Its highly original design might not appeal to everyone, but the watch is fascinating in many ways. It is clearly meticulously designed, with great attention to detail and packed with smart, innovative features. On the wrist, it feels super comfortable and enjoyable to wear. Both the shape, ergonomics of the watch create a very tactile interaction. A rose gold and titanium version is also available. Price starts from CHF 150,000 in titanium. 

For more details, please visit vanguart.com.