Old Meets New On Board the Ulysse Nardin Freak S Enamel

The Freak, Ulysse Nardin’s avant-garde masterpiece, marked a before and after in contemporary watchmaking. Designed by wizard watchmaker Ludwig Oeschlin under the inspired leadership of Rolf Schnyder, the Freak was unleashed in 2001. With no dial, hands, or crown, the Freak upturned conventional time displays, relying instead on the movement’s rotation to tell the time. Beyond its unconventional format, the Freak was fitted with a silicon balance wheel, making it a pioneer of the soon-to-be-widespread adoption of silicon in the industry. Having appeared in countless high-tech materials over the past 24 years, the Freak blasts into the past with vibrant red and turquoise handmade enamel hour discs.

For a behind-the-scenes account of the genesis of the Freak, don’t miss Xavier’s in-depth article. However, to understand the background of the new Freak enamel models, we need to mention the Freak S (“S” for superlative). Released in 2022, the Freak S boasts not one but two inclined silicon balance wheels and is packed to the gills with patented devices. Reminiscent of “a space vessel with two reactors”, the Freak S features the world’s smallest vertical differential gear and is equipped with the brand’s patented Grinder automatic winding system. Described as the “most complicated time-only watch” ever conceived, the Freak S is also the world’s first automatic movement with a double oscillator.

Following the monochromatic Freak S Nomad, inspired by the film Dune, the futuristic, cutting-edge watch returns with métiers d’art enamel hour discs in vibrant turquoise blue and rich ruby red, crafted in-house at Donzé Cadrans, a renowned enamel workshop acquired by the brand in 2011. A marriage of past and future, the enamel discs provide a contrasting background to heighten the viewing pleasure of the movement. However, more than just visual contrast, the guilloché flinqué (hand-engraved patterns covered with a translucent coat of enamel) discs are an integral part of the movement and are in constant motion. To withstand the extreme temperatures of the kiln, the base is made of 18k white gold. After the gold blank is stamped with a pattern to intensify the visual rhythm of the rotating carousel, the fickle process of enamelling begins.

Suspended above the enamel discs, the Freak S puts on a hypnotic mechanical show as the carousel/spaceship completes one rotation every hour, with a luminescent pointer indicating the minutes. Similarly, the disc beneath it completes a rotation every 12 hours and indicates the hours. The three-dimensional architecture of calibre UN-251 features six distinct gear planes to accommodate the two 20°-inclined silicon balance wheels. With 95% of the components in motion, including the bezel to set the time and the caseback for winding, the spectacle is guaranteed.

Supplying energy to two oscillators is a challenge that Ulysse Nardin has tackled with the Grinder, an advanced automatic winding system that captures and converts the slightest wrist movements into energy. Coupled with a low frequency of 2.5Hz, the barrel stores an impressive 72-hour power reserve and is substantial in diameter, almost matching the case.

The 45mm titanium case, with a thickness of 16.65mm, features a notched and angular bezel used to set the time, while the caseback is used for winding – all classic features of the cutting-edge Freak collection.

Both watches are limited editions of 50 pieces. The red enamel model is paired with a ballistic white rubber strap, while the blue model is paired with a grey rubber strap, both with a titanium folding buckle. The two versions of the Ulysse Nardin Freak S Enamel each retail for CHF 153,000, EUR 163,300 or GBP 142,010. More information at ulysse-nardin.com.