The new PR516 Powermatic 80 is Tissot at its Best

Earlier this year, Tissot introduced a revised version of its classic 1960s watch, the PR516 Chronograph Mechanical. Stylish with just the right retro touch, well-proportioned, featuring a hand-wound movement and offered at an accessible price, it got very positive reactions from the watch community – and from us, too. Lo and behold, another model is treated to the same winning formula, this time in a classic time-and-date version with even more affordability but still with a super stylish look. Here’s the new Tissot PR516 Powermatic 80, which could well be another home run. 

The formula that has been used to create the PR516 Chronograph Mechanical has not changed much in the context of this time-and-date Powermatic 80 model. Still named after a 1956 collection, the Particulièrement Robuste, for particularly robust (PR), the model is mainly known under its 1965 shape, designed by Lucien Gurtner, with its distinctive hollowed steel bracelet. While this style has already been revived, the current PR516 chronograph and the new automatic PR516 are, however, modelled after later editions with a sportier design.

Following the well-received chronograph model, Tissot is back with a classic automatic PR516 Powermatic 80 – with a classic formula for the brand: a sporty case, a mix of retro-inspired design with modern construction and proportions, a powerful and economical automatic movement and enough clever features to make it a great value proposition. And yes, the design is cool, too, no doubt about it. Design-wise, this new time-and-date edition of the Tissot PR516 retains most of the cues found in the chrono, with updated proportions. The case, with its straight flanks and almost integrated lugs, has a spot-on 38mm diameter and about 44mm in length. Thickness: a very decent 11.2mm.

The case is made of steel, with mostly brushed surfaces and nice polished lateral bevels. Like the hand-wound chronograph, it’s topped by a fixed and black-coated bezel with a 60-minute scale protected by a mineral crystal insert, mimicking the look of vintage plexiglass bezels. A sapphire crystal with AR coating protects the dial, while a see-through caseback offers a view of the movement (not entirely necessary, but pleasant for newcomers to mechanical watches, one of the brand’s targets…) And there’s also a fairly decent 100m depth rating, with a classic push-pull crown.

The dial of this PR516 Powermatic 80 is obviously sleeker than its chronograph counterpart but still retains enough 1970s character. The signature rectangular and retro-styled hands have been retained but now run over a simpler dial with applied luminous markers and a date window. The PR516 Powermatic 80 mention is maybe a bit too present, but the rest, including the coloured seconds hand without counterweight (surprisingly cool), is just right. The watch is available in several versions, including a classic black dial/bezel with red seconds and steel bracelet, a blue dial/bezel with blue leather strap, a black dial/bezel with yellow seconds and brown leather strap and a silver dial with PVD gold two-tone effect on a bracelet. The black-on-steel model here is, without a doubt, the most appealing edition with its casual-sporty attire, its very legible matte black dial and a timeless look.

Inside the case is the classic Powermatic 80 movement, an evolution of the ETA 2824 with an extended power reserve (80 hours), a reduced 3Hz frequency and a Nivachron balance spring. Whether you opt for a steel bracelet or a leather strap, both are equipped with quick-release spring bars. The version we had for this article, with its multi-link bracelet, was not only cool-looking with a vintage flair but also pretty comfortable, the bracelet feeling both solid and flexible. The triple-folding clasp is nothing exceptional but does the job and looks good too.

Now part of the permanent collection and available from the brand, the new Tissot PR516 Powermatic 80 feels like yet another winning combination of retro style, modern features and genuine accessibility. Indeed, this new model starts at EUR 675 on a leather strap, EUR 745 on a steel bracelet and EUR 825 for the two-tone model (probably our least favourite).

For more details, please visit www.tissotwatches.com.