Monochrome Watches
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Three New Models in the Hamilton Khaki Pilot Pioneer Collection

New colours for the 43mm mechanical and 38mm automatic bring a fresh update to the wartime-inspired pilot’s watches.

| By Erik Slaven | 4 min read |

Hamilton’s latest models from the Khaki Pilot Pioneer collection have been updated with new bezels, dials and strap colours to bring a “civilian” touch to the more conservative, military-inspired watches. The collection is (loosely) based on the World War II Model 23 pocket watch for U.S. Air Force navigators and splinters off into modern 43mm hand-wound and 38mm automatic wristwatches. The military aesthetic is still very much evident, but the updated colours make them a bit more versatile for everyday wear with a lighter tone.

THE KHAKI PILOT PIONEER 38MM AUTOMATIC

There are two stainless steel automatic models, each with a 38mm case diameter and a height of 11.4mm, distinguished by their bezel and strap colours. Both dials are off-white with a grained pattern and have black Arabic numerals and a peripheral minutes/seconds railroad track. Small squares of beige Super-LumiNova are seen every five minutes on the track, and the cathedral hour and minute hands have matching lume inserts. A sapphire crystal with dual anti-reflective coatings protects the dial. The bi-directional rotating bezel has either a burgundy or moss green mineral glass insert with a simple 60-minute scale, and 18mm burgundy or green leather straps match the respective bezel. An oversized push/pull onion crown sits at 3 o’clock, and the water-resistance is rated at 100 metres.

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Powering the 38mm models is Hamilton’s calibre H-10 (the Powermatic 80), based on the ETA C07.611 automatic. It has 25 jewels, beats at 21,600vph (3Hz) and comes with a sizeable 80-hour power reserve. There’s also an anti-magnetic Nivachron hairspring. Functions include central hours, minutes, hacking seconds and date, although the date isn’t utilised here. Seen from the exhibition caseback, the movement looks nice with a custom Hamilton rotor, but it’s otherwise undecorated.

The two Hamilton 38mm Khaki Pilot Pioneer models are priced at CHF 950 or EUR 1,075, which is certainly reasonable for stylish, (light) pilot’s watches with an 80-hour power reserve.

Quick Facts: 38mm diameter x 11.4mm height – brushed stainless steel case – 100m water-resistance – bi-directional bezel with mineral glass insert in burgundy or moss green – sapphire crystal with dual AR coatings – exhibition caseback – off-white grained dial with black Arabic numerals and railroad track with beige Super-LumiNova squares every five minutes – cathedral hands with beige Super-LumiNova inserts – calibre H-10 (Powermatic 80) – automatic – anti-magnetic Nivachron hairspring – 25 jewels, 21,600vph (3Hz) – 80h power reserve – 18mm leather strap in burgundy or green (to match bezel) with pin buckle – reference H76265810 (burgundy) and reference H76255810 (green) – CHF 950 or EUR 1,075

THE KHAKI PILOT PIONEER 43MM MECHANICAL

The larger watch comes in just one new colourway with a bronze case (no steel option as seen from the collection’s debut in 2021). The case diameter is 43mm with a height of 13mm, and a bold push/pull onion crown sits at 3 o’clock (larger than the 38mm automatics) and is perfect for use with gloves. Again, water-resistance is 100 metres. Like the prior 43mm model, the bi-directional rotating bezel has a black mineral glass insert with a simple 60-minute scale, but the dial is now off-white with a grained pattern like the new 38mm automatics. There are gold (galvanic-plated) cathedral hands with beige Super-LumiNova inserts and a small seconds sub-dial at 6 o’clock. A railroad track surrounds the perimeter with beige squares of lume every five minutes, and the dial is protected by a sapphire crystal with dual AR coatings. The watch comes fitted with a 20mm brown leather strap with a pin buckle.

This model is more closely connected to vintage pocket watches, featuring the large and classic hand-wound ETA/Unitas 6498-1 movement, which was traditionally used in pocket watches. The small seconds at 6 o’clock differentiate it from the 6497-1 movement that has small seconds at 9 o’clock. It has 17 jewels, beats at a relatively slow and retro 18,000vph (2.5Hz) and comes with a 46-hour power reserve. Functions include central hours, minutes and small seconds. It’s an impressively large movement as seen from the exhibition caseback, with simple yet nice finishing on the plates and gears. The Khaki Pilot Pioneer 43mm Mechanical is priced at CHF 1,455 or EUR 1,645, which is a solid price for a bronze piece with the ETA/Unitas 6498-1 and classic military styling.

Quick Facts: 43mm diameter x 13mm height – brushed bronze – 100m water-resistance – bi-directional rotating bezel with black mineral glass insert and simple 60-minute scale – sapphire crystal with dual anti-reflective coatings – exhibition caseback – off-white grained dial with black Arabic numerals and railroad track with beige Super-LumiNova squares every five minutes – gold (galvanic plated) cathedral hands with beige Super-LumiNova inserts – small seconds sub-dial at 6 o’clock – ETA Unitas 6498-1 – hand-wound – 17 jewels – 18,800vph (2.5Hz) – 46h power reserve – 20mm brown leather strap with pin buckle – reference H76709510 – CHF 1,455 or EUR 1,645

All three watches will be available from authorised retailers and Hamilton’s website. For more information and to place an order, please visit Hamilton’s website.

https://monochrome-watches.com/three-new-models-in-the-hamilton-khaki-pilot-pioneer-collection/

2 responses

  1. totaly out of place. some kind of seiko alpinist mutant. dont like it al all. no clear statement in design. a what? retro diver? pilot? dont get it.

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