Some Thoughts about the Patek Philippe Calatrava 6196P, One of the Best in Years

If you ask yourself what’s the most classic dress watch ever made by Patek, and probably one of the most important models of the category, the answer should ultimately be the Calatrava. Not much to debate here. The collection, created in 1932 with the reference 96, has had such an influence on the watch industry that the word icon is legitimate in this context. But in recent years, there’s been Calatravas and Calatravas… with pilot-inspired watches or weekly calendars. What matters today is the 96 lineage, the essential, timeless Calatrava. Luckily, the one we all have in mind has returned this year with the launch of the Calatrava 6196P. And here’s what I think about it.

What is a Patek Philippe Calatrava (the 96 lineage)

When we think about the Calatrava, we must immediately mention the all-important reference 96 by Patek Philippe, the watch that not only started this collection but also 1. saved Patek back in the days,  2. launched a new style of case construction, 3. was basically the blueprint for the next 90+ years and has almost remained unchanged ever since.

Back then, Patek Philippe was facing difficult times, and brothers Jean and Charles Henri Stern, dial makers (owners of the Fabrique de Cadrans Stern Frères) and suppliers of Patek, purchased a controlling interest in the company to save it from bankruptcy. Their solution: a simplified, mainstream model that would broaden the appeal of Patek Philippe timepieces beyond high-end collectors whilst still maintaining the brand’s exceptional reputation for quality and excellence in design and manufacturing. The answer was the Patek Philippe Calatrava reference 96, a watch designed according to the Bauhaus principle of form follows function – so simple and pure that is has become ageless. The style was guided by geometric shapes with a simplified and unified design between case and dial, without flourishes.

An important element of the original Calatrava was its case shape and construction. While now classic, the 3-part architecture was novel back then, with lugs that were an integral part of the case middle, rather than being soldered on (usual in the early days of the wristwatch). The round bezel was a flat, so-called coin-edge element, and the case mixed a certain industrial look with elegance and discretion. And the recipe didn’t change much, up until the last-known generation of the 96 series, the long-lived 5196, which was discontinued in 2022. Indeed, for the past three years, there was no such Calatrava in the collection, even though the highly appealing reference 6119 occupied some of the spots, but with a Clous de Paris bezel.

Remembering the Calatrava 5196

Before this new Calatrava 6196P, and up until 2022, the role of the classic dress watch at Patek was given to the reference 5196, with a J, R, G or P next to it for yellow gold, rose gold, white gold – all three with a classic dial and obus-style hour markers – and platinum, with an absolutely stunning two-tone silver dial with Breguet numerals. The 5196 was presented in 2004 and came with a 37mm case, just 8mm thick. More modern in proportions, it was nevertheless as classic as a Calatrava could be, with its 3-part case with lugs integrated into the case middle and its flat stepped bezel.

At the heart of the 5196 was a hand-wound movement, the calibre 215. And there, some things needed to be addressed. First of all, this movement was far from new in conception, dating back to 1974. Second, it was small, like, really small, measuring just 21.9mm in diameter, yet with a thin profile of 2.55mm (these dimensions explain why the 5196 had a solid back). The drawbacks were an odd position of the small second counter – way too high on the dial – and a power reserve of just 44 hours. Of course, it has been upgraded over the years, and its 4Hz Gyromax balance is equipped with a Spiromax hairspring. But, all in all, it wasn’t the most modern of movements.

That being said, I can’t help but love the 5196, specifically the platinum version. It is, despite all its flaws, my all-time favourite modern Patek Philippe Calatrava. It is as close as it can get to the original 96 reference, elegant to a ridiculous point, full of character and charmingly outdated. I’m fully aware of everything that is slightly off with this watch, and yet I absolutely love it and still rank it very high on my grail watch wishlist. One day, maybe…

The return of the classic Calatrava with the 6196P

Here’s a new watch in the Patek Philippe Calatrava xx96 series… And believe me when I say this, it is big news. On Patek’s scale, it’s the equivalent of a new Submariner at Rolex or a new Speedmaster Moonwatch for Omega. It’s time for the most emblematic and timeless watch of the brand to enter a new generation – and I’m confident in saying that the Calatrava is as historically important as the Nautilus, if not more. And while the brand focused most of its communications this year on the 8-day 5328G, also a watch part of the Calatrava collection, the arrival of the 6196P marks the brand’s return to its most essential codes. Which should have been under the spotlight.

So what are we looking at? Essentially, it is an evolution of the range, not a revolution. For the best, I should say. The new Patek Philippe Calatrava 6196P is the direct descendant of the 5196 generation, itself an evolution of the 3796, 3438, 570 and, of course, the all-important 96. As such, it is an unmistakably classic Calatrava, with everything that’s meant to be in it: classic 3-part case, flat bezel, elongated lugs, hand-wound movement, clean dial. Yet, the 6196P feels more modern than its predecessors. It’s not only about the movement, it’s also about how it feels on the wrist, the proportions and shapes and some details on the dial. There’s a contemporary edge added to the ultra-conservatism of the collection, and if I’m biased in saying that I loved the watch, this isn’t an entirely unanimous opinion – more on that when we come to the dial.

So, in 2025, the classic Calatrava returns in all its glory. A new generation of xx96 Patek Philippe, with some major changes under the hood (finally…) and some minor updates on the case front. Let’s start with the dimensions: 38mm in diameter, making it 1mm larger and 9.33mm in thickness, thus an additional 1.33mm compared to the past, long-discontinued model. We’re not talking about significant changes here, and the watch retains the proportions you’d expect from such a classic dress watch, with all the elegance attached to the collection. But just a bit more presence on the wrist. Just a bit… Regarding the thickness, I didn’t find the increase notable, and the watch remains thin, yet it can’t really enter the ultra-thin category anymore. This being said, the construction of the case, with a thin middle case, makes this 6196P feel thinner than the numbers suggest.

On to the design… No surprises. The 6196P is still everything you want from a classic Calatrava, starting with the middle case that integrates these thin and elongated lugs, topped by a flat, polished coin-edge bezel, itself framed by a lightly box-shaped sapphire crystal. The case is mostly polished, with brushed flanks and being platinum, there’s a brilliant-cut diamond inserted between the lugs at 6 o’clock. For the first time in the 96 lineage, there is a sapphire back – and it makes good use of the see-through capacity. As for my feelings about this case, it retains the edginess of the classic Calatrava – pointy lugs, squared edges for the bezel, flat flanks – with a bit more curves than before… I have a hard time finding exactly why, but it feels a bit softer than a 5196. Maybe there’s a bit more curvature on the external side of the lugs, maybe that’s the effect of the more pronounced dome of the sapphire.

But what’s more important: it still looks brilliantly elegant on the wrist, with the kind of discretion you want in such a watch. The sort of watch that only those in the know will recognize as a tasteful and well-thought choice, a watch with the “if you know, you know” effect. I’m talking about the case in particular, as the dial has more punch than the 5196. That said, the probability of seeing gold evolutions in the near future is high, and we could see more classic dial colours. The watch is worn on a strap that, to my taste, is the least appealing part of this Calatrava 6196P. It is unquestionably well made, but this shiny, large-scale brown alligator leather feels a bit outdated. I’d change it for a lightly textured calfskin strap in a mid-grey tone. Well, to each his own. It is closed by a pin buckle and comes with quick-release spring bars, so changing it will be easy.

On to the dial… A rose-gilt opaline dial, or in watch-nerd terms, salmon. A wise choice for the introduction of a new generation of Calatrava and a great match with the cold tone of platinum. The dial has a matte effect (opaline) with a very fine grainy surface. It’s not your classic rose gold-plated sunray-brushed dial, but something far more discreet and casual. A colour that feels in line with the current tailoring trends, soft and natural tones with an earthy touch (the watch nerd in me tells me to stop talking about this…). Nevertheless, the base of the dial has an appealing colour that isn’t new to Patek and recalls the recent Perpetual 5320G, Chronograph 5172G or the in-line calendar 5236P. It even made it to the 5270P Perpetual Calendar.

Look closely at all these references and you’ll see that they all have in common blackened or anthracite-toned markers and hands. The Calatrava 6196P is no exception and comes with anthracite white gold applied faceted obus-style hour markers and dauphine-style hands. Yet, since these are the only elements to be found on the dial, their presence is rather hard to miss. I personally like them. Specifically, because their polished surface ensures that the colour isn’t too harsh at certain angles. Frank Geelen, our editor-in-chief, is less positive and would have preferred traditional rhodium-plated elements. What’s certain is that in real life, it’s less contrasted than the original press images suggested. I’ve kept the best for the end: the position of the small seconds sub-dial. Exactly where it should be, thanks to a new and far larger movement.

Inside beats the calibre 30-255 PS, which made its debut inside the Clous de Paris Calatrava 6119 and is a major upgrade compared to the old calibre 215 on all possible levels. One, thanks to its large diameter (31mm), it can now be seen through the back, and it nicely fills all the available space. Second, this is a modern hand-wound movement with a twin-barrel architecture (in parallel) offering a solid 65h power reserve. Next, it retains the same 2.55mm thin profile as the 215 and adds a stop seconds to the equation, next to the now-usual Gyromax balance and Spiromax hairspring. Last, it is a handsome movement with beautifully shaped bridges and a real sense of elegance. It is nicely decorated with Geneva stripes, polished bevels and perlage. It is regulated to -3/+2 seconds/day.

Thoughts and price

What to say… I think this article speaks for itself, and yes, the new Patek Philippe Calatrava 6196P is an extremely appealing watch, all the more since it opens the door to a new generation of Calatrava and multiple evolutions – white gold with silver dial, anyone? The respect of the traditional Calatrava look combined with discreetly modern design elements and solid mechanical content inside makes for a watch with strong arguments. This watch is a true Patek Philippe in the most traditional way. Elegant, timeless, restrainedly luxurious – not all modern Patek watches are born this way. So yes, I’m extremely positive about this release. Up until I saw the price.

In the past, the classic Calatrava – understand the 5196J, R, G or P – used to be the entry-level (precious metal) model. Not so long ago (in 2021), the yellow gold version was priced at just under 22,000 euros, and the platinum version was around 35,000 euros. The new Patek Philippe Calatrava 6196P retails for EUR 46,800, USD 47,135 or CHF 40,000. That’s a lot of money for a time-only watch, even in platinum and even considering the new movement, even without debating how beautiful it is. Now, knowing that a Calatrava 6119R or G with the same movement inside and a slightly more complex case currently retails for 33,700 euros, we can surely expect the possible future gold 6196J or 6196G to be around 32,000 euros. Still not accessible, but that’s what we have to deal with now. For more details, please consult patek.com.