The Wine-Toned Formex Essence 39mm Gamaret Automatic Chronometer

We’ve covered Swiss watchmaker Formex on many occasions, and for good reasons. The brand has a distinct sense of design and offers fully equipped watches. Reasonably priced, these might not be the most accessible models in this segment of the industry. However, you get a lot (and I really mean a lot) for your money. A couple of years ago, Formex updated its best-selling model, the Essence, by reducing its case to a compact and balanced 39mm. We’ve seen this watch in multiple variations, including a cool meteorite dial. And it’s back in a surprising reddish-brown tone that pays tribute to Swiss wines (yes, the Swiss also produce wine).

This new edition of the Formex Essence 39mm is named Gamaret, a Swiss type of grape. Created in 1970, the grape was developed specifically to thrive in an Alpine climate and produces a strong, colour-rich red wine. And rich in colour is what best defines this new edition of the Essence. Its dial, which brings back the signature horizontal lines of the collection (individually CNC machined into the dial base), features a deep, reddish-brown tone that immediately reminds us of the colour of wine. The dial is also vertically brushed and has a gradient effect, with the edges of the dial being slightly darker than the centre, which adds depth and dynamism. Time is read thanks to faceted hands and hour markers, all coated with Super-LumiNova. And the date at 6 o’clock sits in a chamfered window with a tone-on-tone wheel.

The watch itself, the Formex Essence 39mm, has a very long list of features. First, its case has a complex architecture with its patented suspension system which relies on four springs at each corner of the case, allowing the central container to move freely on a vertical axle and thus absorbing shocks. Second, the case is complex in design, with facets and a combination of brushed surfaces and polished bevels, giving it some presence. With its 100m water-resistance, 39mm diameter, reasonable 10mm height and a compact 45mm lug-to-lug measurement, it’s a very decent all-rounder that sits comfortably on the wrist. A sapphire crystal protects the dial.

Another important feature of the Formex Essence 39mm Gamaret (and all other editions) is the movement. Sure, it’s a classic Sellita SW200-1, a movement found in many mid-range watches. But here, it’s chronometer-certified by the COSC and comes with a personalised rotor, perlage decoration and thermally blued screws. The movement beats at 4Hz and stores 41 hours of power reserve.

As always with Formex, this new red wine-toned edition can be ordered with various straps and bracelets. With its 3-link construction, the bracelet has brushed surfaces and chamfers to match the design of the dial and is closed by a folding clasp with micro-adjustment. All strap options (leather or rubber) come with the brand’s carbon fibre deployment buckle, equipped with a patented fine adjustment system (not something you often see on straps).

The new Formex Essence 39mm Gamaret Automatic Chronometer is released as part of the permanent collection and is now available for orders on the brand’s website. It is priced at EUR 1,330 on a strap and EUR 1,450 on a steel bracelet. For more details, please visit formexwatch.com.

Sponsored post: This article is sponsored by Formex. However, it reflects the writer’s opinion and has been written according to MONOCHROME’s editorial policy.