The Cvstos Metropolitan PS collection

Cvstos is a Swiss independent watchmaking company we rarely covered but has been in business for about 15 years now. We recently covered the race-inspired Challenge Chronograph Sprint, a powerful looking chronograph watch with some very interesting details. Next in line for the brand is the introduction of, well, yet another luxury sports watch. But one with a few intriguing details, and an in-house movement. This is the Cvstos Metropolitan PS collection.

Cvstos is a brand managed by Sassoun Sirmakis, a man quite experienced in the watchmaking industry. With its headquarters in Geneva, the brand is currently producing around 2,500 watches per year, yet has flown a bit under our radar perhaps. With the all-new Metropolitan PS collection, Cvstos is looking to change this.

The Metropolitan basically comes in two variants, with each one being available in multiple materials. First, there is the Metropolitan PS, with a closed dial, and secondly, there’s the more outspoken Metropolitan PS Skeleton. Both watches feature the same design principles, and measure 51mm by 42mm, making for a rather large watch. On paper at least, as on the wrist, it sits quite well despite the size.

Cvstos Metropolitan PS

The Metropolitan PS (petite seconde) comes in either a Grade 5 titanium or 5N red gold case, with a brushed and polished finish. The sleek, geometrical case wears very comfortable, despite the relatively large dimensions. In terms of finishing, it has an appealing combination of polished surfaces and vertical brushing. On top is a raised bezel with a shaped sapphire crystal following the case’s contours.

The dial for the Cvstos Metropolitan PS is either in blue (for the titanium version) or black (for the red gold version). It has been decorated with a special diamond polishing process, to enhance the décor of the vertical pattern. A sloped minute flange encapsulates the applied hour indices. In the bottom half of the dial there is the small-seconds subdial, with a circular finishing and a raised ring with a white scale, and an integrated date window. The large and facetted central hands are divided have a small cutout towards the central axis, and a luminous insert running along the rest of the spine.

Turning the watch over reveals the Calibre CVS410. This automatic movement delivers a decent 50-hour power reserve and is nicely decorated with traditional finishing. The skeletonized gold-toned winding rotor has a QR code that is unique to each watch. This will access a personalized page on Cvstos’ website with detailed information on this very specific (and thus, personal to the owner) watch.

The Metropolitan PS is fitted to an integrated titanium or gold bracelet with a quick-interchangeability system. The centre links are slightly raised above the outer links, boosting the robust look of the watch. Rubber and leather straps are also available. The Cvstos Metropolitan PS retails for EUR 13, 500 in titanium, with the price for the red gold version yet to be determined.

Quick Facts – 51mm x 42mm – tonneau-shaped Grade 5 titanium or 5N red gold case – polished and brushed surfaces – sapphire crystal on front and back – screw-down titanium or red gold crown – 50m water-resistant – blue or black dial with vertical guilloché pattern – applied hour markers with Super-LumiNova – chromed hour, minute and seconds hand with Super-LumiNova – small seconds subdial with integrated date aperture – Calibre CVS410 – automatic winding – 31 jewels – 28,800vph – 50h power reserve – rhodium-treated plates and bridges with Côtes de Genève – gold-coloured rotor with individual QR code – limited edition of 200 pieces in titanium or 25 pieces in red gold – titanium or gold bracelet with polished and brushes surfaces – quick-release system – leather and rubber straps available – retailing from EUR 13,500

Cvstos Metropolitan PS Skeleton

Next to the Metropolitan PS models with closed dials, Cvstos also presents the Metropolitan PS Skeleton. As the clue is in the name, this one comes with a fully-skeletonized movement and lacks a traditional dial. This dramatically changes the look of the watch, despite the fact the exterior design is identical to the other. It is once again available in titanium or red gold, but Cvstos also presents it with a fully transparent sapphire crystal case to reveal all the inner mechanics of the watch.

The in-house constructed mainplates and bridges are coated with green PVD for the titanium or sapphire crystal case, and blue for the red gold case. The top plate has a 12-spoke design with each arm featuring an applied hour marker. Surrounding the dial is a sloped minute track in anthracite grey.  The hands are identical to the closed dial version of the Metropolitan PS, yet the small-second display is different. A sapphire disc is fitted on top of the mainplate, with a white one-minute scale and a triple-bladed Cvstos logo running indicator. The only “complaint” I have is the fact that all three blades are identical, making it a bit of a challenge to precisely read the time. The sapphire disc, or ring actually, is cut open at the bottom to give space to the date indication.

In terms of specifications, the Calibre CVS410 SQLT is identical to the others, with the exception of the skeletonized construction obviously. You still get a movement using 31 jewels, running at a rate of 28,800vph and offering a little over two days of running time when fully wound. The backside of the movement has an anthracite finish, topped with a steel skeletonized rotor with the individual QR code on the square segment.

Similar to the Metropolitan PS with a closed dial, the Metropolitan PS Skeleton comes on a titanium or red gold bracelet, matching the case. In all editions, the bracelet has a folding clasp with a very convenient micro-adjustment system. Again, leather and rubber alternatives are available. This too is a limited edition, with 200 pieces in titanium, 25 in red gold and 50 in sapphire crystal. The Cvstos Metropolitan PS Skeleton starts at a retail price of EUR 20,800 in titanium and EUR 39,200 for the sapphire crystal case. The price for the Metropolitan PS Skeleton in red gold is yet to be determined.

Quick Facts – 51mm x 42mm – tonneau-shaped Grade 5 titanium, 5N red gold or sapphire crystal case – polished and brushed surfaces – sapphire crystal on front and back – screw-down titanium or red gold crown – 50m water-resistant – Skeletonized movement construction with 12 arms doubling as indices – applied hour markers with Super-LumiNova – chromed hour and minute hands with Super-LumiNova – sapphire small seconds subdial with triple-bladed seconds indicator and integrated date – Calibre CVS410 SQLT – automatic winding – 31 jewels – 28,800vph – 50h power reserve – green PVD coated plates and bridges  – rotor with individual QR code – limited edition of 200 pieces in titanium, 25 pieces in red gold and 50 pieces in sapphire crystal – titanium or gold bracelet with polished and brushes surfaces – quick-release system – leather and rubber straps available – retailing from EUR 20,800

For more information, please visit Cvstos.com