The Revised TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 Date

Following a complete and welcomed overhaul of the TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 Automatic collection in 2021, last month the brand introduced its latest updated models in the series, with five new Aquaracer Professional 300 Date and three Aquaracer Professional 300 GMT versions, with captivating new dials, slightly reduced case sizes, and powered by the proprietary movements. We gladly share our hands-on experience and live images of the new Aquaracer Professional 300 Date watches.

If you are familiar with the look of the Heuer 2000 series and Aquaracer (models’ name since 2005) before the collection was revamped in 2021 providing new watches with a more refined appeal, the first thing you’ll notice is that the 2024 update brought in even more refinement.

The new TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 Date models feature stainless steel cases with a reduced diameter of 42mm, compared to the 43mm size of the 2021 edition, though they are slightly thicker at 12mm (about 13mm overall with the flat sapphire crystal). The case design is enhanced by a mix of satin-brushed and polished surfaces, a finish that was once exclusive to luxury timepieces but is now standard. This alternation beautifully highlights the chamfers, making these versatile diver’s watches look impressive even away from the water. The sporty aesthetic is further enhanced by the protected screwed crown, which adds both style and functionality.

The new TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 Date cases are distinguished by the collection’s signature 12-sided (dodecagonal) unidirectional rotating bezels, first introduced in 1995. Over the years, these bezels have been updated regularly, losing their “claws” and since 2021, featuring ceramic inserts with a 60-minute graduation – 5-minute intervals, a mix of numerals and sticks and a Super-LumiNova triangle at 12 o’clock to mark the start of the diving time. The 120-click rotation is smooth, and the serrated edge provides an easy grip. The ceramic inserts match the dial colours, which vary by reference and can be blue, green, or black.

The screwed solid casebacks are adorned with the scaphandre à casque diving suit image, which first appeared on the Aquaracer case back in the early 2000s. The water resistance is an impressive 300 m/1,000 ft, as clearly stated on the dials. Speaking of the dials, let’s delve into their details.

The engraved horizontal lines of the previous Aquaracer dials have been replaced with a sunray brushed wave pattern. The dials reflect light in a way that showcases a range of hues, like the ceramic bezels, often fading to a dramatic black before returning to their vibrant original colours, emphasizing the watch’s aquatic connection. However, compared to the 2021 releases, the 2024 Aquaracer Professional 300 Date editions seem to have added a touch more luxury, moving slightly away from the toolish-watch aesthetic of the earlier, already elegant Aquaracers. Despite this shift, the quality and performance remain top-notch, making the choice a matter of personal taste.

Readability is excellent, thanks to the thoughtful design elements. The flat minutes/seconds ring is crisp. The applied faceted indices at 3, 9, and 12 o’clock have a trapezoid shape, while the other eight indices (apart from the missing one at 6) feature an octagonal shape, perhaps as a nod to the bezel’s multi-sided silhouette. All hour markers are generously sized with a substantial Super-LumiNova fill, emitting a green glow not visible in our images. At 6 o’clock, the rectangular date aperture is magnified by a lens integrated into the inner side of the crystal, ensuring the top surface remains flat – a clever design solution.

The Aquaracer Professional 300 Date handset is distinctive and perfectly complements the large indices, making it instantly recognizable. The rhodium-plated, sword-shaped hour hand with a shield tip pairs well with the narrower yet still prominent minutes hand. The central seconds hand varies in colour depending on the dial variant: orange with a Super-LumiNova-filled rectangular lollipop tip for the blue dial, lime green for the green dial, and blue for the black dial. This colour matches the printed chronometer designation on the dial, highlighting the watch’s precision.

All new references in the Aquaracer Professional 300 Date range are powered by the COSC-certified proprietary automatic calibre TH31-00, developed in collaboration with Sellita’s higher-end arm, AMT. These movements operate at 28,000 vibrations per hour and, importantly, provide an impressive 80 hours of autonomy.

The Aquaracer Professional 300 Date offers the option of a rubber strap or a three-row stainless steel bracelet, both of which provide adequate comfort. Both feature a folding clasp with double safety push-buttons and a fine adjustment system, allowing for a convenient 10mm extension if needed. Rubber straps are available in blue and black to match the dial’s colour, although the green dial variant currently only comes with a bracelet.

Priced at CHF 3,500 on a strap and CHF 3,700 on a bracelet, these watches offer an excellent price-to-quality ratio. I would opt for the black dial on a black rubber strap for a more understated look, but as the saying goes, de gustibus non est disputandum.

For more, visit tagheuer.com.