While Prospex represents the instrumental side of Seiko, with some of its most revered diver, exploration or pilot’s watches, the Presage collection is its more classic, slightly elegant counterpart. Ranging from funky colourful watches (the Cocktail) to models showcasing traditional Japanese craftmanship, it also includes some more casual models and some with a strong vintage inspiration, and by that, we mean watches inspired by the 1964 Crown Chronograph. Following the same idea, Seiko today releases a new, accessible collection that still takes cues from this important watch, with seven new references all under the same Seiko Presage Style60’s Collection.
Just like the SPB127J1, SPB131J1 and SPB129J1 in 2020 and the SRQ031 in 2019, these new models are modelled after a historically important model, the Seiko Crown Chronograph of 1964. However, while these previous watches were faithful to the details of their ancestor and priced in a higher range, the new references we’ll discover today evoke the past but are also accessible models.
The 1964 Crown watch was Japan’s first wrist chronograph and Calibre 5719, its first chronograph movement – before Seiko rushed into the race for the first automatic chronograph. The movement, still hand-wound, was pretty spectacular, with a column wheel and horizontal coupling architecture, but mostly with a single button to trigger the chronograph functions, and a high frequency of 5.5Hz, or 39,600vph. This impressive engine was housed in a 38mm steel watch with a blackened rotating bezel and, even more special, a display without sub-counters. To measure intervals of more than one minute, the wearer first had to rotate the bezel to point the 12 o’clock triangle in front of the minute hand. What remained though in 2020 and 2021, is the overall look of the dial with its distinctive applied markers and hands, its multi-textured surface, its sharp case and its black bezel.
The Time-and-date Seiko Presage Style60’s
As mentioned, Seiko Presage’s latest collection includes no fewer than seven watches, divided into two sub-collections; the difference is mostly on the movement and display, as for the rest, these watches share the same overall design language. First, the time-and-date models.
Under the references SRPG03, SRPG05, SRPG07 and SRPG09 are four identical watches with a simple display, all having the exact same design, with the exception of the colours used for the dials and bezels. The new Seiko Presage Style60’s series incorporates some of the design elements found on the 1964 Crown Chronograph; however, it shouldn’t be considered a recreation (as Seiko often names them) but more of a modern reinterpretation. It is a watch that borrows some elements of the past but in a modernised context.
All four watches have a 40.8mm case, which has a sharp shape with thin lugs, a prominent box-shaped Hardlex crystal and a water-resistance of 50 metres. This time-and-date edition of the Seiko Presage Style60’s is also quite compact with a 46.5mm lug-to-lug, while the thickness remains acceptable at 12mm. Visually, these are recognisable thanks to a fixed bezel with a 60-minute metallic insert, matte finished and available in several colours depending on the model chosen. The case displays both brushed and polished surfaces.
As for the dial, specifically in the silvery-white edition presented above, this is where the resemblance with the 1964 Crown Chrono is the most obvious. Indeed, these new models are built around the two-tone surface of the original watch, with its circular brushed hour chapter ring, while the rest of the dial is sunray-brushed. Also, it features faceted and textured applied indexes, as well as sharp Dauphine hands, just like the 1964 watch. Finally, even the Seiko logo pays tribute to the past with its vintage font. There’s a decent amount of LumiBrite on the dials and hands, with some of the editions showing a slightly faded colour to enhance the old-school look. A modern touch, these watches are equipped with a date.
Four versions of this Presage Style60’s are being launched. First is the SRPG03J1 with its ivory white dial, black bezel with gilt scale and golden-coloured indexes. Then is the SRPG05J1 with blue dial and bezel, and silver scales and indexes. There’s also the SRPG07J1 with its dark green dial and bezel. All three editions are worn on a stainless steel bracelet with folding clasp and push-button release. Finally, the collection comprises the SRPG09J1, which comes with a black dial and bezel and is worn on a nylon NATO-like strap.
At the heart of these watches and visible under a see-through caseback is the well-known automatic calibre 4R35, a simple yet robust engine that beats at 3Hz and boasts 41 hours of power reserve.
All four models are released as part of the permanent collection and will be priced at EUR 540 (SRPG03J1, SRPG05J1, SRPG07J1) or EUR 490 (SRPG09J1).
Quick facts: 40.8mm diameter x 12mm height – stainless steel case, brushed and polished – fixed metallic bezel with 60-minute scale – box-shaped Hardlex crystal and see-through caseback – 50m water-resistant – calibre 4R35, automatic, 23 jewels, 3Hz, 41h power reserve – stainless steel bracelet or nylon strap
The Open-Heart Seiko Presage Style60’s
In addition to these four classic models with closed dials, Seiko is also introducing three more references in this collection, this time with a different movement and something specific on the dial. As for the case, these opened watches remain fairly identical, with the same overall shape, water-resistance, fixed 60-minute bezel, domed Hardlex crystal and the same 40.8mm diameter. Due to the slightly different movement, these will be 12.8mm in height.
The most obvious evolution for these editions of the Presage Style60’s is the presence of a cut-out on the dial – a so-called “open-heart” dial – partially revealing the regulating organ. It also comes with a 24-hour indication, which can be used as a day/night indication. Apart from that, the hands and indexes are identical, and the different finishings found on the dials of the time-and-date watches are brought back. Mechanically, these models feature the Calibre 4R39, which is the same technical base as above with an extra jewel, but still with 3Hz frequency and 41h power reserve.
The Open-Heart Seiko Presage Style60’s will be available in three different flavours. First is the SSA423J1 with its ivory white dial and a black bezel, yet this time with silver-coloured hands and indexes. Then comes the SSA425J1, which is presented with a black dial and bezel. Both versions are worn on a steel bracelet with a folding clasp. Finally, there’s the SSA426J1 with its gold PVD case, its brown dial and bezel and worn on a nylon NATO-style strap in brown.
All three models (SSA423J1, SSA425J1, SSA426J1) are released in the permanent collection and will all be priced at EUR 590.
Quick facts: 40.8mm diameter x 12.8mm height – stainless steel case, brushed and polished – fixed metallic bezel with 60-minute scale – box-shaped Hardlex crystal and see-through caseback – 50m water-resistant – calibre 4R39, automatic, 24 jewels, 3Hz, 41h power reserve – stainless steel bracelet or nylon strap
For more details, please visit seikowatches.com.