The New Seiko Presage Classic Series SPB529

Seiko’s latest Presage Classic Series looks back at the late Edo period (specifically the Bunsei era, 1818-1830) with a gradient dial shade that was popular at the time. Perhaps even more emphasis is given to the straps that highlight upcycling with the use of leather offcuts from fine shoemaking. Inspiration was taken from the signature loafers of REGAL, a high-end Japanese shoemaker (originally Nippon Shoes Co., Ltd.). The watch itself has a clean and classic design that continues from the 2024 Presage Classic Series SPB463, SPB465, & SPB467 with a distinctive aesthetic of its own.

The stainless steel case is 40.2mm in diameter and 13mm in height (lug-to-lug 46mm). A dual-curved sapphire crystal with an interior AR coating protects the dial, and there’s a screwed exhibition case back (with LIMITED EDITION engraved as the watch is limited to 3,000 pieces). There’s an oversized fluted crown at 3 o’clock, and water resistance is rated at 100 metres. The lower coin edge bezel is finished in a rich golden-brown hue, adding a warm contrast that complements the dial. The 20mm leather strap has a three-fold clasp with push button release and is again sourced from fine shoemaking overcuts from REGAL. This merges two high-end crafts while repurposing fine leather that could otherwise be discarded.

The light brown gradient dial is based on Shiracha, a shade that was popular among tea masters and traditional arts enthusiasts during the aforementioned Bunsei era. There are applied gold-toned bar-shaped indices and hands that carry forward from last year (the seconds hand counterweight has a distinctive spearhead shape), while a simple minute/seconds track spans the perimeter. A bevelled date window sits at 3 o’clock.

Powering the Presage Classic Series SPB529 is Seiko’s calibre 6R55 automatic with 24 jewels, a beat rate of 21,600vph (3Hz) and a power reserve of 72 hours (hence the “Automatic 3 Days” mention on the dial). Functions include central hours, minutes, hacking seconds and date. Accuracy is rated at +25/-15 seconds per day and is generally well within those parameters in practice.

The Presage Classic Series SPB529 is limited to 3,000 pieces and retails for EUR 1,120 or USD 1,050 with availability from October 2025. For more information, please visit seikowatches.com.