The Rose Gold & Steel Union Glashütte Belisar Chronograph Moon Phase

German entrepreneur Johannes Dürrstein opened a manufacture in Glashütte in 1893 to produce quality Glashütte watches at significantly lower prices than other manufacturers in town. Closed in 1933 and acquired by Swatch Group in 2000, Union Glashütte is proud of its Saxon watchmaking heritage and sticks to the founder’s policy of competitive prices. One of the best-represented categories at UG is the chronograph, appearing across all the brand’s collections (except women’s watches) with markedly different characters. The Belisar family has an eclectic lineup of retro and contemporary chronographs and dive watches. It is also home to a complicated and very complete reference, the Belisar Chronograph Moon Phase, returning in a handsome two-tone rose gold and steel case.

Although not mentioned in the name, the Chronograph Moon Phase is also a calendar watch with day, date and month displays. Recently refreshed in a smaller 42mm case size, the model combines its sporty chronograph function and 100m water resistance with a classical, elegant case distinguished by its screwed case flanks.

The new edition ups the luxury factor with its rose gold bezel and rose gold screwed flanks. Brightly polished, the bezel and flanks stand out against the satin-brushed surface of the lugs. Viewed in profile, the gold screwed flanks surround the rounded steel pushers, fluted crown and screws. Viewed from above, the gold flanks peek out from under the steel lugs to create an attractive stepped border.

With so many functions packed into one watch, the dial is surprisingly legible, with an entire swathe of space on the right side of the white dial. The date is displayed on the dial’s periphery and is indicated by a blued pointer hand. The applied Arabic numerals at 12, 3, 6 and 9 o’clock and faceted trapezoid indices are crafted in rose gold and filled with Super-LumiNova. The rose gold hour and minute hands are also treated with Super-LumiNova and accompanied by a rose gold central chronograph seconds hand with an openworked rhomboid tip.

Three sub-dials compress all the remaining information related to the chronograph, the calendar and the phases of the moon. The counter at noon hosts the 30-minute elapsed times of the chronograph and two apertures for the day of the week and month. At 9 o’clock is a 24-hour display with an additional gold hand for the running seconds. The 12-hour totaliser at 6 o’clock is also home to the moon phase with its golden moon and blue sky. All three counters are snailed and indicated by blued hands.

Powering the watch is the automatic calibre UNG-25.S1, an ETA 7751 base movement updated and customised by UG. It is equipped with a silicon balance spring and has an improved power reserve of 65 hours.

The model comes with a brown calfskin strap embossed with a crocodile pattern. It retails for EUR 7,500 (incl. tax). More information at union-glashuette.com