Monochrome Watches
An online magazine dedicated to fine watches
Hands-on

Rexhep Rexhepi Presents the RRCHF Chronograph Flyback

A traditional construction… yet with a strikingly distinctive personality.

calendarCreated with Sketch. | ic_dehaze_black_24pxCreated with Sketch. By Xavier Markl | ic_query_builder_black_24pxCreated with Sketch. 5 min read |

Since the AK-01 was presented in 2012 under the Akrivia brand, Rexhep Rexhepi has gained incredible recognition, evidenced by the prices of his watches at auction. Yet, it has been a while since we have seen a new model from the young independent watchmaker lately, the latest ones being the Chronomètre Contemporain RRCC II in 2022 and a striking collaboration with Louis Vuitton in 2023. Given the volume of orders and backorders still to be fulfilled, the release of new models amid ongoing deliveries is probably both challenging and could be hard to interpret for collectors. That said, the wait is over. Rexhep Rexhepi has tackled the creation of what is arguably one of the most emblematic complications: the chronograph, of which the development remains an intensely technical feat. A visit to his workshop in the old town of Geneva allowed us to discover his beautiful RRCHF – for Rexhep Rexhepi Chronograph Flyback – a mechanically classic creation with superb execution and striking personality.

Expectations are naturally high with a new Rexhep Rexhepi watch, specifically when it is focused on a complication such as the chronograph. One expects something that respects the canons of haute horlogerie but with personality, not just another highly-decorated classic chronograph. And the least we can say is that the new RRCHF Chronograph Flyback is not lacking in character, while being beautifully executed.

Ad – Scroll to continue with article

Classic RR Design

Naturally, we’ll take a deep look under the hood, but before that, a few words about the design of the watch. Upon first inspection, the RRCHF is immediately striking due to its unique dial configuration. The focus is on the chronograph functions, with the hours and minutes relegated to a subsidiary, off-centre subdial at 12 o’clock. The thin, oversized chronograph second hand takes centre stage, while the small seconds and chronograph minute counter create a counterpoint in the pyramidal dial layout. The use of tinted sapphire for the sub-dials allows a glimpse into the movement intricacies. 

The RRCHF comes in two versions, both novel combinations for Rexhep Rexhepi. The first one comes in a distinctive shade of green/blue enamel within a platinum case, while the other has a black enamel dial and a rose gold case. The markings and numerals on the dial echo the style of the RRCC and RRCC II. Maintaining the same concern for balance and symmetry, the “Hgers à Genève” caption has been added (Horlogers à Genève, Watchmakers in Geneva in French). Last but not least, the intricately shaped, stepped, hand-made steel hands further enhance the watch’s character.

Presented in platinum or rose gold, the 38,8mm case is superb. It features a stepped bezel, rounded rectangular pushers and elongated curved lugs, reminiscent of the creations of the late Jean-Pierre Hagmann, the renowned casemaker who came back on stage with Akrivia in 2019, before passing away last year. 

Courtesy of the movement’s integrated design, the crown and pushers are perfectly aligned, creating a sense of balance for the profile of the watch. On the wrist, this sub-10mm chronograph remains discreet, and it is comfortable to wear thanks to its bassiné caseback and sloping lugs. 

A new & superb in-house calibre

Now on to the business side of the RRCHF, the first thing to catch your eye is the distinctive architecture of the hand-wound movement. With its symmetrical architecture – in pure Rexhep Rexhepi fashion, and reminiscent of the RRCC and RRCC II, and (mostly) the unique Chronomètre Antimagnétique, it looks like no other chronograph. From top to bottom, we get a large single barrel delivering 72 hours of power reserve, the chronograph mechanism, the gear train and a large balance wheel held under a transversal bridge. This symmetry is also mirrored across the other axis, in particular with the chronograph minute wheel (with its characteristic toothing) on the left-hand side and the seconds wheel on the right-hand side.

From a technical perspective, the underlying principles are classic with a horizontal clutch and a column wheel – the latter being almost hidden in a second layer of the movement, next to the minute wheel. The large screw balance features a Phillips curve and beats at 21,600 vibrations/hour. The click spring produces a pleasing sound when winding the watch. 

As you have come to expect from Rexhep Rexhepi, the finishing is top-notch with superb, large and deep Geneva stripes that create a striking sense of depth. The bevelling, particularly on the sharp internal angles, is masterfully executed. Among other highlights, the intricate centre bridge with its mirror-polished and Geneva stripes is beautiful to behold. To achieve this superb mix of decoration, it is actually made of two distinct parts screwed together. One in steel and one in maillechort. Another nice touch, all the jewels of the steel parts are set in a chaton, also for technical reasons, since a softer metal is required to seat them without risk of cracking.

Availability & Price

The vast majority of the components of the RRCHF are made in-house, the traditional way: the case, the enamel dial, the movement and its parts… and this even extends to the hand-sewn nubuck leather strap – most parts being made near the brand’s headquarters, with almost all ateliers located on the same street in Geneva.

The price for Rexhep Rexhepi RRCHF Chronograph Flyback is CHF 150,000, whether for the gold or the platinum edition. Rexhep Rexhepi’s production being confidential (around 50 watches per year in total), availability should be scarce, and via allocations.

For more details, please visit www.rexheprexhepi.com.

https://monochrome-watches.com/rexhep-rexhepi-rrchf-chronograph-flyback-review-price/

Leave a Reply